Winter Climb Update: Images From K2

While things begin to wind down in the Antarctic, they're just getting started in the Karakoram. The teams in Pakistan know that they have a lot of work ahead, and while the odds are most definitely stacked agains them, they're gearing up for potentially historic climbs.

There hasn't been much word from K2 the past few days, where the Russian Team continues to work the route. If all went according to schedule, they should have established Camp 2 a few days back and are now fixing lines above that point. The team did manage to share some images from the expedition thus far, and you can check out that very impressive gallery by clicking here.

Over on Nanga Parbat, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko took advantage of the good weather over the past few days and spent some time exploring the mountain and the surrounding area. They have already built Camp 1 and spent a night there, but a few days ago they descended back to BC as part of their acclimatization process. Today the weather has taken a bit of a turn however, with fog and snow settling in at altitude. They'll watch those conditions over the weekend and decide how best to proceed from there.

Two teams are now en route to Gasherbrum I as well, as they look to make the first winter ascent of that peak. The Polish squad hasn't shared many details of their journey yet, but they do note that they hope to leave Skardu for Base Camp tomorrow. Meanwhile, Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez left Spain a few days ago, and have already arrived in Skardu as well. They plan to start the nine day trek to BC soon as well, and hope to be in place on the mountain by next weekend.

Stay tuned for more. Most of the teams are still getting settled and prepping for the real climb ahead. The weather situation will be what dictates the pace at which they'll be able to climb however.

Winter Climb Update: Progress On K2 and Nanga Parbat

The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre, who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all.

On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be expected on the world's most challenging mountain, but despite high winds and -75ºF/-59ºC temperatures, the talented team continues to make progress.

Working in teams of two and three, they have been focused on fixing ropes above Camp 1, and according to updates on their website, C2 could be established as early as tomorrow. The climbers have taken turns installing the lines and sleeping at altitude in order to not only acclimatize, but also stay well rested for the challenges ahead. All team members and gear are now on the mountain, and many of their supplies have also been shuttled up to C1. Progress has been slow, but steady, but the real difficulties will set in above Camp 2, where the winds and heavy snows of K2 will really start to become a problem.

Meanwhile, two teams are getting settled in over on Nanga Parbet, which also remains unclimbed in the winter. Denis Urubko and Simone Moro were the first to arrive and after getting settled in Base Camp, they began their ascent. The duo has already established Camp 1 at 5100 meters (16,732 ft) and spent a night their acclimatizing, but unstable snow conditions above that point have prevented them from going higher.

Upon returning to BC, Denis and Simone discovered they had company. The Polish team that has also set its sights on Nanga this season was in camp and getting set-up as well. The two teams will no doubt share the work load of fixing the lines, although you know that they each want to be the first to claim the summit.

Denis and Simone are also releasing video dispatches of their journey, the first of which can be seen below. The excellent video shows the men as they leave Italy and make their way to Pakistan, where they organize gear and put the finishing touches on their planning, before heading out to Base Camp. Pay special attention to all the bags they have with them. It'll give you a sense of how much gear is required for one of these expeditions. Can't wait for more of these dispatches! Great stuff!

Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions.

On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization process and to shuttle gear to High Camp. He has since returned to Low Camp at 4328 meters (14,200 ft), where he is keeping a close eye on the weather and hoping for a window that will allow him to go to the summit.

Yesterday, he awoke in his snow cave and was getting dressed for the climb, when the winds suddenly grew in intensity, so rather than risk it, Lonnie elected to stay put, rest up, and wait for another opportunity. Essentially the stage has been set for him to make his summit bid, all he needs now is a weather window long enough to give him access to the top. His home team says that they are anticipating such a window in the next few days. When it comes, we could see the first ever solo summit of the mountain in January.

Meanwhile, over on K2, the Russians have continued their work fixing the lines up the mountain, and have completed their work up to 6050 meters (19,750 ft). That is the altitude at which they've established their Camp 1, and a trio of climbers (Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich) have shuttled the first round of gear up to that point today. They'll place a tent at C1 and spend the night there, before descending back down the mountain tomorrow, when another three climbers will rotate up the face and continue fixing ropes above that point.

The weather forecast on K2 isn't very enticing. Yesterday they toiled away in -51ºC/-60ºF temperatures and those are expected to go lower in the days ahead. The high winds at altitude are expected to drop some over the next few days though, which should make the working conditions a bit better, despite the colder temperatures. Such is winter on the world's second tallest peak.

Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest.

The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their efforts. They report that there is little snow on the mountain, at least at this point, but that the temperatures are bitterly cold, as one would expect on the second highest mountain on the planet.

The climbers arrived in BC over the weekend, after being shuttled in by a Pakistani military helicopter, and immediately went to work building their base of operations, organizing their gear, and preparing for the work ahead. It took three flights of the large MI-17 helo to deliver all of the men and their gear to BC, but after waiting out several weather delays, they were happy to finally be on the mountain at last. They now have until March 20th to successfully complete the first winter ascent of K2.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre has been a very busy man on Denali, where he hopes to complete the first solo climb of that mountain in January. He has been building a series of snow caves on the mountain, which will serve as his camps as he goes, and had already shuttled much of his gear up to 4876 meters (16,000 ft). He plans to carry those supplies up to 5242 meters (17,200 ft) tomorrow and establish his High Camp there, before returning to his Low Camp as part of the normal acclimatization process.

Having reached those heights so early in January bodes well for the success of the expedition, but that said, as always on Denali, the weather will decide if and when he can go to the summit. High winds and extremely cold temperatures (-60ºF/-51ºC) have been the norm so far. The mountain is notorious for its bad weather, particularly in the winter, and blizzards can rage for days on end. With that in mind, I'm sure Lonnie wants to take advantage of the current conditions as long as he can, so that he can squeeze through any weather window that is presented.

These two climbers are going to present some amazing drama in the days and weeks ahead. Stay tuned for plenty of updates as both the Russians and Lonnie go after their respective summits.

Winter Climb Updates: Dupre On Denali, Russians Wait

I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. 

We'll start in Alaska, where the weather finally cleared yesterday, allowing Lonnie to hit the mountain at last. He'll now start the process of establishing his Base Camp and organizing his gear ahead of the climb. Since this is to be the first solo January ascent of the mountain, Dupre will likely not start the climb until January 1, which gives him several days to prepare. The weather report looks to be good in the coming days, which also bodes well for the start of the expedition, although the weather is notoriously fickle in Alaska, and can change quickly. Like last year, Lonnie will climb without a tent and will instead take shelter inside snow caves that he'll build himself. 

The weather is on the minds of the Russian Team as well, as they prepare for what will no doubt be the biggest challenge of their climbing careers. The first eight members of the squad have now completed their acclimatization and are back in Skardu, while the second group of eight rotates out for a little time in the nearby mountains as well. Their gear has been packed and organized, and now they're waiting for the Pakistani Army to assign them a helicopter to airlift the supplies to Base Camp. Bad weather in the region is keeping the helicopters grounded at this point however, so the expedition can't officially get underway until the gear can be delivered to BC. There are high hopes that that can happen in the next few days, and the climbers themselves can continue their journey to the mountain. 

Winter is now officially here, which means that these two winter climbs can now officially get moving. Both expeditions are going to be incredibly challenging, as Lonnie will face the mountain alone and with a hard deadline of January 31st, while the Russians are now prepared to spend upwards of three months climbing K2. 

Winter Climb Updates: Russians On Their Way To BC, Lonnie in Talkeetna

The big winter climbs that I've been covering, even before they've gotten underway, are both ramping up nicely and getting ready to commence. Considering the first full day of winter is tomorrow, the climbers are all in the final stages of preparation and are preparing to let the action begin.

First up, the Russian K2 team took just two days to reach Skardu, arriving there on Saturday. Since then, they've been busy getting their gear prepped for the climb and packing it for transport to Base Camp. Most of the equipment will be shipped via helicopter, where it will be waiting for them to arrive, and while the support crew works at putting the final touches on their preparation work, the eight climbers who will be working the mountain have started their acclimatization process. They'll spend a few days climbing the nearby Sadpara Mountains, before heading into BC itself. The hope is to arrive their by Sunday, Christmas Day, when they'll officially start the expedition.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre is also putting the finishing touches on his preparations to take on Denali once again. He's also keeping a close eye on the weather as well. According to his website, he'll be off to Base Camp as soon as his air taxi can deliver him to the frozen wilderness. Dupre is returning to the mountain once again this winter in an attempt to become the first person to solo-summit in the month of January. To that end, he hopes to be in position on January 1st so that he has a full 31 days to accomplish his goal. Last year, his attempt was thwarted by bad weather, which is a common occurrence on North America's tallest peak during the winter.

Both of these climbs are going to be epic. Lonnie's solo bid on Denali is a bold mountaineering feat and the Russian K2 squad could be attempting the impossible. For those of us who love to follow these kinds of adventures, it is certainly going to be fun to watch. Lets just hope everyone stays very safe.

K2 Winter Update: Off To Skardu By Bus

The all-star team of Russian climbers who will take on K2 this winter, have started the second leg of their journey. After arriving in Pakistan last weekend, they've been busy organizing their gear and planning the logistics of the expedition. After completing that process, they have now shipped their gear to Skardu, which serves as the gateway to the Karakoram, and they had hoped to hop a flight to that city as well. But weather delays have grounded air travel in the region, so they've elected to go by bus - a journey which could take upwards of 30+ hours to complete.

On Tuesday, the team stopped by the Central Alpine Club of Pakistan, where they were briefed on the climb and awarded their climbing permit. With that last logistical hurdle out of the way, they are now free to proceed with the expedition. The plan is to ship their gear from Skardu to K2 Base Camp by helicopter, while they follow along on foot, taking the time to acclimatize a bit on their way to BC. The plan is to be in camp and officially begin the climb on Christmas Day.

The team is deep in talent and has some impressive climbs on its resume, including ascents of Lhotse, Everest, and K2 itself. But according to ExWeb, none of the mountaineers have completed a Himalayan climb in the winter and the bulk of their experience climbing during that season is within Russia itself. Winter climbing in Russia is a challenge of course, but they're likely to face conditions they've never seen before in the Karakoram.

Climbing K2 is a supreme test of physical and mental toughness. It is, arguably, the most challenging climb on the planet, and that is under the best of conditions. The winter will bring a whole new set of obstacles to over come, not the lest of which will be the bitter cold temperatures, howling winds, and heavy snows. I salute these bold Russian climbers for giving this climb a go, and while the odds are supremely stacked against them, I'll definitely be cheering them on none the less.

I can't wait for them to get on the mountain and start the climb.

K2 Winter Update: Russians In Pakistan

One of the big expeditions for the winter ahead is the attempt to summit K2 by an all-star team of Russian climbers. Considering the fact that the "Savage Mountain" has never been climbed in the winter, and is amongst the most challenging feats in all of mountaineering under the best of conditions, this project is likely to garner quite a bit of attention in the weeks ahead.

According to the official expedition website, the climbing team arrived in Pakistan today and have been working to get their gear through customs. Once that is completed, they'll ship it all to Skardu, which is where they'll begin the next phase of their journey to K2 base camp. If all goes according to plan, they should arrive in BC sometime next week, just in time for the start of winter.

Standing 8611 meters (28,251 ft) in height, K2 is the second tallest mountain on the planet behind only Everest. It is considered to be far more challenging to climb however and is often labeled "the mountaineer's mountain" because of the skill and experience required to reach the top. In August of 2008, 11 climbers perished on it's slopes in what was considered the prime climbing season for the mountain. It then went un-climbed for three years before an international team managed to reach the summit earlier this year.

A winter K2 attempt will likely be the very definition of suffering. The Russian squad will no doubt face incredibly cold temperatures, sustained high winds, heavy snows, and the ever present threat of avalanches. In short, this will be one of the toughest climbs imaginable, although if anyone can pull it off, it will likely be this hardy band of Russians who are accustomed to dealing with these types of conditions. They are prepared to stay on the mountain for upwards of three months and they have plans to work in teams of two to fix lines and build camps. Whether or not the weather, and the mountain itself, will ever give them the opportunity at the summit, remains to be seen.

This is going to be a good one to follow. Stay tuned for updates.

Russian K2 Winter Ascent: More Details On The Climb

Last week I posted a story about an all-star team of Russian climbers who will take on the Mountain of Mountains this winter when they attempt to climb K2. Now, as the 16-man team prepares to depart for Pakistan, we get a few more details on the climb courtesy of ExWeb.

In my original post, I wrote that the Russians were about to attempt the impossible, and while that is a bit of hyperbole, I do believe that a K2 winter ascent is perhaps the most challenging climb in mountaineering. It is a significant undertaking in during the summer, and winter will present a whole host of additional challenges. But, making the first ascent of the second tallest mountain in the world isn't challenging enough for this veteran crew. They're going to attempt to do it without the use of supplemental oxygen as well. ExWeb reports that the team will stash an oxygen bottle in each of their camps for a emergency purposes, but aside from that, they'll go sans O's.

The team is also still working out the details of exactly which route they'll be taking as well, although the plan now is to go up a variant of the well known  Cesen Route. At some point they'll traverse the treacherous face of the mountain and switch over the Polish Route, which they'll take to the summit. That is, if everything goes according to plan.

The expedition also has an official website, all in Russian of course, which can be found here. Google Translate can help fill in some of the details however, and doing so reveals that the team will hold a press conference on December 5th, prior to their departure to the Karakoram on December 9th. That means they'll arrive in Pakistan less than two weeks before the start of winter, and by the time they organize their gear and travel to Base Camp, the new season should have officially begun. They'll then have until March 20th to complete a true winter climb, although I'm sure none of them are interested in spending three months in that remote location during the winter.

The hope is that they'll pull off this incredible feat and fly the colors of Mother Russia at the summit along side the official flag of the 2014 Winter Olympic Games, which will take place in Sochi, Russia.

Make no mistake, this will be one of the most ambitious and difficult mountaineering expeditions in recent history. The 16 men on this team are about to be pushed to the very limits and they are going to need a lot of things to go their way before they will successfully step onto the summit. If they are successful, this talented team will have pulled off one of the toughest climbs imaginable on this planet.

Update: It has been pointed out to me that there is an English language version of the site which can be found here. Much easier than using Google Translate! Thanks Greg!

Russian Team To Attempt The Impossible: K2 In Winter!

Explorers Web has a story today about a new expedition to the Karakoram this winter that will attempt to climb K2 under the harshest conditions imaginable. The team features an all-star line-up of Russian climbers who are accustomed to formidable challenges, but despite their collective experiences in the mountains, this will most certainly be their toughest climb yet.

The 16-man team will consist of Alexey Bolotov, Gennady Kirievskiy, Vladimir Belous, Nikolai Totmianin, Valery Shamalo, Gleb Sokolov, Vitaliy Gorelik, Illias Tukhvatullin, Andrey Mariev, Vadim Popovich, Evgeny Vinogradskiy, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Bychkovskiy, Igor Boriseko and Vladimir Kuptsov. Himalayan vet Viktor Kozlov, whom ExWeb describes as having spent years planning this attempt, will lead the expedition.

Standing 8611 meters (28,251 ft) in height, K2 is the second highest peak in the world, and one of the toughest climbs under the best of conditions. During the winter, high winds, cold temperatures, and precarious snow conditions will only serve to elevate the challenges that are normally associated with the "Savage Mountain." K2 also happens to be one of the deadliest mountains to climb, with about a 25% fatality rate amongst summiteers.

Just how challenging is this mountain? This past summer, a team of four climbers reached the summit after weeks of working the route, waiting out the weather, and acclimatizing. They were the first team to top out on the mountain in over three years. In contrast, hundreds of climbers summit Everest every year. To say K2 is tough is an understatement, and that doesn't even begin to factor in the difficulties that winter will present.

Now that said, I'd like nothing more than to see it actually climbed in the winter. This is going to be one epic adventure and the men who will be undertaking this expedition know going in that they are going to suffer. The plan is for the large team to be spit into groups of two men each. They'll all take shifts working at fixing lines, building high camps, and supporting one another for summit bids. It'll take a truly team effort to reach the top, and we get to follow along as they do.

Watch for more updates on this expedition in the weeks ahead.

Climbing Legend Walter Bonatti Has Passed Away

The mountaineering community lost one of its living legends last night when Italian climber Walter Bonatti passed away at the age of 81. He is best remembered for pioneering new routes in the Alps, Patagonia and the Himalaya.

Among Bonatti's more famous accomplishments were the solo winter ascent of the Matterhorn's North Face and first ascents on the Southwest Pillar of Aiguille du Dru and the Grand Capucin. Other notable climbs include Gasherbrum IV, Rondoy North, and multiple summits of the Grandes Jorasses.

Bonatti played a pivotal role in the first ascent of K2 as well, although it took decades for him to get the recognition he deserved. Working in support of Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, Bonatti helped establish and stock the high camps on the mountain in preparation for the eventual summit bid. On that successful attemp, Lacedelli and Compagnoni ran out of oxygen and accused Bonatti of using it while he was at Camp IX, an accusation that Bonatti vehemently denied, as he didn't even have a regulator or oxygen mask with him at that point of the climb. That expedition took place in 1954 and it took until 2008 for Bonatti to be officially cleared of the accusations and get the credit he deserved.

An active, daring, and visionary climber, Bonatti wrote numerous books on mountaineering and inspired a generation of climbers that followed him. He quietly passed away in Rome leaving his widow Rossana Podesta behind.

Godspeed Walter.

Karakoram 2011: Ralf And Gerlinde Talk K2 On Video

The 2011 Karakoram season is now a fading memory, but even though the rest of us have just begun to move on, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits have only now just returned home to Germany following a long trek out from K2 Base Camp and flights home from China.

As you probably recall, Gerlinde and three teammates became the first team to summit K2 in three years and in the process she became the first woman to summit all fourteen 8000 meter peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. It was a very long, hard, climb for everyone involved, but in the end, their patience was rewarded with the opportunity to stand on top.

Immediately after their return home, Gerlinde and Ralf appeared on a German talk show to discuss their epic climb. The result was a 15+ minute long segment during which they talk about the challenges of climbing K2, what it was like on that mountain, and much much more.  You'll find the video below, and while it is in German, it has been close captioned in English. Simply hit the "CC" button to get an English translation.

Karakoram 2011: International Team Safely Off K2

The squad of international climbers who successfully climbed K2 earlier this week are now safely down the mountain and making their way to Base Camp. According to a dispatch posted on Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's website, Ralf Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich climbed up to their "Deposit Camp" today to meet Gerlinde, and her compatriots Maxut Zumayev, Vassiliy Pivtsov, and Darek Zaluski. The six teammates then continued down the mountain to BC, and eventually the Chinese Base Camp, where a team of porters were waiting to load the remaining gear on camels for the trek out. That trek will begin tomorrow, and the entire team will soon be back in civilization once again.

According to Max, the four summiteers didn't truly celebrate their achievement until they were officially back down the mountain. As most mountaineers will tell you, the summit is only half-way to the finish line, and K2 is a particularly treacherous peak on the descent as well as the climb. Fortunately, the team reached Base Camp without any real problems, and they are now resting up and preparing for the journey home.

Max also noted that he and Vassiliy received a call from the Prime Minister of Kazakhstan, Karim Masimov, to personally congratulate them, but they were still on the mountain at the time. Ralf took the call and passed on the sentiments to the two Kazakh climbers.

Now that everyone is down and safe, I want to send one more round of congratulations to the team. They worked hard and were very patient, and in the end their persistence paid off, and they were able to climb the toughest mountain in the world. It is an amazing accomplishment and they've earned every bit of rest and relaxation that they've got coming to them. Well done!

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team Descending To Camp 1

With their successful summit of K2 now behind them, the team of Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zumayev, Vassiliy Pivtsov and Darek Zaluski have been working hard to get back down the mountain safely. Today, they hope to descend as far as Camp 1, then finish their descent tomorrow, and start the long trek back home.

After a very long day of climbing yesterday, Gerlinde and Darek were able to make their way back to Camp 4, where they spent the night. Max and Vassiliy stayed in an intermediate camp above C4, but all four climbers headed down early this morning. According to their latest dispatches, they regrouped in Camp 3, where Gerlinde was waiting with  hot soup on the stove. After a brief rest there, they continued the descent, with the ultimate goal of reaching C1.

Tomorrow, they'll clean up all of their gear in Camp 1, then make their way down to their Base Camp, where Ralf Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich are already waiting and have most of their gear packed. From there, they'll spend another 3.5 hours descending to the Chinese Base Camp, where a team of porters are waiting with camels to help pack the gear back out to civilization. If all goes according to plan, they should be off the mountain and on their way home by Friday at the latest.

The descent is still a treacherous one, but they have passed the most demanding sections now and should arrive in Camp 1 today without too many problems. The worst of the climb is behind them, and it won't be long until they can get some real rest.

Karakoram 2011: Summits On K2!!

The long weeks of hard work and patience have finally paid off on K2, where the news is coming in this morning that the international team has summited the mountain. Details are still a bit light, but late in the day Pakistan time, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Maxut Zumayev, and Vassiliy Pivtsov have topped out on the world's second highest peak. Derek Zaluski is said to be close behind, but as of this writing, not at the summit yet.

Gerlinde's website has been down for maintenance all day (How's that for timing?), but has just come back online to announce that she has reached the summit, with Max and Vassiliy close behind. The note alos says that Darek is trailing a bit, but should arrive shortly. That post came at 6:18 PM local time.

Their day began at 1:30AM this morning, when they started the final summit push. The team had spent a very cold night at 8300 meters (27,230 ft) and were anxious to get the final portion of their climb underway. Unfortunately, they found plenty of snow waiting for them, and they had to continue to break trail through waist deep powder for much of their way up. It is also an extremely cold day on the mountain, and all four are said to be suffering from the bitter temperature. That said, the winds are nearly non-existant and there isn't a cloud in the sky, so the weather window has held, even if the temperatures have dropped.

This is all welcome news, as these summits are the first since the tragic events of 2008 during which 11 people died on K2. Since that time, the mountain has turned back all challengers, including some of the most experienced and talented climbers on the planet.

It should also be noted that by completing this climb, Gerlinde has become the first woman to summit all 14 of the 8000 meter peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen. That is a huge accomplishment as well, and she deserves all the accolades for pulling that off.

Of course, the climb isn't over just yet. They need to get back down safely as well, and considering how long they've been climbing already today, they are surely exhausted. They'll likely descend back to Camp 4, rest awhile, then continue down the mountain. Keep your fingers crossed for them until they are safely back in Base Camp. They're not safely off the "Savage Mountain" just yet.

Congrats to Gerlinde, Max, Vassiliy, and Darek on a job well done. Now get down safe!

Karakoram 2011: Climbers In Camp 4 On K2

The international team of climbers on K2 continue their long, slow, exhausting summit bid today. The attempt started last Tuesday and as of yesterday, the four person group was into Camp 4, amidst good weather and near perfect conditions. But with lots of snow on the upper slopes, there are still plenty of hazards to overcome before they stand on top.

According to the latest update on Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's website, the team has elected to spend today in C4, where they'll rest and work on fixing lines. There are no ropes going to the summit, so they'll have to put them in place as they go, and considering this push has already gone on for two days longer than planned, they can use some time to recharge the batteries before the final ascent.

As expected, a weather window has indeed opened, and we're told that it has brought clear skies and virtually no wind. Above Camp 4 however, there is still waist deep snow that is impeding progress. They did manage to break a bit of trail and get a few lines in place before turning back to rest, and the hope is that tomorrow, they'll be able to cover the same ground much more quickly and move into an area with less snow. If that happens, they may have a real shot at reaching the summit.

In addition to Gerlinde, this team also includes Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov, and Darek Zaluski. The four are all that remain on the mountain, as all other teams have already left Base Camp and gone home for the year. Two other members of this team, Ralf Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich, have both descended back to BC, where they await their companions.

Stay tuned. Tomorrow will likely be the decisive day on K2 this year.

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team In Camp II

The weather on K2 cleared enough today for the four climbers still hoping for a chance at the summit to move up higher on the mountain. It wasn't easy though, as they reportedly had to wade through waist deep snow at times. The forecasts improve heading into the weekend however, and they are still planning a summit bid in the next few days.

According to both Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Maxut Zhumayev's home teams, the team arrived in Camp II at about 3:30 PM local time today. Gerlinde and Max are joined by Vassily Pivtsov and Darek Zaluski on this climb, and all four are said to be exhausted after another long day on the hill.

You may recall that yesterday it was reported that they were forced to camp between C1 and C2, as the heavy snow was making it very hard to break trail, and they were faced with the constant threat of avalanches as well. Fortunately they made it through that treacherous section, and now hope to have the weather on their side starting tomorrow.

The plan now is to go to Camp III tomorrow and overnight there. On Sunday, they'll push on to Camp IV and evaluate the conditions. If the weather holds, and they feel comfortable going higher, the four-person team will have a go at the summit.

Meanwhile, it is also being reported that Ralph Dujmovits and Tommy Henrich have both arrived safely back in BC. The two men turned back yesterday due to the conditions on the mountain and the fact that they felt it wasn't safe to climb higher. They'll now wait for their companions to descend before they all head home.

Good luck to the team this weekend!

Karakoram 2011: K2 Team Splits, Four Have Summit Dreams

The drama unfolding on K2 continues today with the news that the international team on the North Side of the mountain has now split into two units, with four climbers heading up to Camp II, while the rest abandon their climb and return to Base Camp.

According to a dispatch from Maxut Zhumayev this morning, the climbers moved up to an intermediate camp located at 6100 meters (20,013 ft) on the mountain. It was tough climbing as there is a lot of snow above Camp I, which ultimately forced them to stop short of their goal for the day, which was CII. Joining Max on the climb is fellow Kazakh and long time climbing partner Vassily Pivtsov, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and Darek Zaluski.

Gerlinde's home team posted an update to her blog as well, noting that her long time climbing partner (and husband), Ralf Dujmovits has given up his attempt to summit K2 this year and is headed back down the mountain. He is joined by Tommy Henrich as well. Apparently, Ralf felt that the danger of avalanche was too great for him to proceed any higher.

The post also says that the four climbers have been making very slow progress thanks to the steady snows that have been falling all day. They'll now stay at the "rocky shoulder" and rest, before further evaluating their next move.

The weather forecasts indicated that conditions would improve as the week moved along, with a possible window opening over the weekend. They did expect some snow in the early part of the climb, but it sounds like they are getting far more than they had expected. Whether or not they'll actually get a chance at the summit remains to be seen, but it isn't looking all that promising at the moment, as they've also fallen off their schedule for a Sunday summit as well.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for this team to top out, but as we all know, K2 is not a mountain to take lightly. The conditions sound dicey at best, but things can change quickly. We'll now have to wait until tomorrow to see if they have a chance at moving higher.

Karakoram 2011: It's Over On K2's South Side, North Side Teams Staying In Camp I

More updates from K2 today, as the team on the North Side stays put, while the final team on the South calls it quits.

Yesterday I posted the news that the international team on the North Side of the mountain had moved up to Camp I, where they were planning to evaluate the weather and conditions on the mountain before they proceeded any higher. Forecasts look good for the next few days, and it appears that there could be a weather window for a summit bid coming this weekend. Yesterday however, a lot of snow was deposited on the mountain once again, which has made conditions treacherous once again. Because of this, the team has elected to stay in Camp I for another day with the hopes that it will help clear some of the excess snow from the upper slopes.

According to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Ralf Dujmovits’ home team, the plan is to now head up to Camp II, located at 6600 meters (21,653 ft) tomorrow. Avalanches above CI have made the climb dangerous today, but apparently much of the loose snow has been sliding off the mountain, so they're feeling confident about their ability to climb higher tomorrow.

Spending an extra day in Camp I shouldn't impact the team's schedule much. They had already built in a one-day cushion for the climb and still expect to top out on Sunday, weather permitting.

Meanwhile, on the South Side of K2, Fabrizio Zangrilli and Kinga Baranowska have called it quits. After more than two months in Base Camp, the duo were running out of time and supplies, so they have elected to head home. In fact, Fabrizio says that they are already back in Islamabad, after spending three days trekking out and two more driving out of Skardu.

The decision came after climbing back up to Camp II and evaluating the conditions higher on the mountain. Zangrilli described them as "very dangerous" and with weather forecasts not looking particularly promising on their side of the mountain, he and Kinga thought it best to pull the plug. They are already planning a return for 2012 however, and wishing the North Side team the best of luck on their final bid.

So, we're down to just one team on K2. Will they be the ones to finally stand on top again? We'll find out this weekend.

Karakoram 2011: Final K2 Summit Bid Is Underway!

It has been a long season on K2 already, with many ups and downs along the way. But today, the climbers on the North Side of the mountain began their final climb, reaching Camp 1, as they make one last attempt on the summit this year.

According to an update posted to Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner's site, the entire international team met for breakfast this morning and discussed their plans. Apparently after resting for a few days in the Chinese Base Camp, they are now more than ready to go back up. The weather reports look solid for the next few days, and they have moved up to C1 today, with an eye on reaching the summit by Sunday, August 21st.

According to Maxut Zhumayev, the weather should continue to get better as the week goes along, with the best window opening up on the weekend. Between now and then however, plenty of snow is expected on the higher elevations, which could make breaking trail to Camp 4 particularly challenging. Apparently the Kazakh climbers were able to work out their visa extensions as well, as Max and the rest of the crew are part of this summit push. He sent in a dispatch from Camp 1, informing us that they were all safely at their destination, and despite lots of snow, they intend to move up to C2 tomorrow and evaluate their situation from there. If the weather holds, and conditions are good, they'll keep moving up.

There has been no word from the K2's South Side as to whether or not Fabrizio Zangrilli and Kinga Baranowska will make another bid of their own. They've been in BC longer than anyone, and it appeared that they would be running low on supplies and time by the middle of this week, but if the weather looks good for them too, they may have it in them to give it one more go.

Stay tuned. This weekend will be the decisive days in the mountains for these climbers who have been extremely pa