Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mountaineering. Show all posts

Friday, January 13, 2012

Winter Climb Update: Images From K2

While things begin to wind down in the Antarctic, they're just getting started in the Karakoram. The teams in Pakistan know that they have a lot of work ahead, and while the odds are most definitely stacked agains them, they're gearing up for potentially historic climbs.

There hasn't been much word from K2 the past few days, where the Russian Team continues to work the route. If all went according to schedule, they should have established Camp 2 a few days back and are now fixing lines above that point. The team did manage to share some images from the expedition thus far, and you can check out that very impressive gallery by clicking here.

Over on Nanga Parbat, Simone Moro and Denis Urubko took advantage of the good weather over the past few days and spent some time exploring the mountain and the surrounding area. They have already built Camp 1 and spent a night there, but a few days ago they descended back to BC as part of their acclimatization process. Today the weather has taken a bit of a turn however, with fog and snow settling in at altitude. They'll watch those conditions over the weekend and decide how best to proceed from there.

Two teams are now en route to Gasherbrum I as well, as they look to make the first winter ascent of that peak. The Polish squad hasn't shared many details of their journey yet, but they do note that they hope to leave Skardu for Base Camp tomorrow. Meanwhile, Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez left Spain a few days ago, and have already arrived in Skardu as well. They plan to start the nine day trek to BC soon as well, and hope to be in place on the mountain by next weekend.

Stay tuned for more. Most of the teams are still getting settled and prepping for the real climb ahead. The weather situation will be what dictates the pace at which they'll be able to climb however.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Winter Climb Update: Progress On K2 and Nanga Parbat

The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre, who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all.

On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be expected on the world's most challenging mountain, but despite high winds and -75ºF/-59ºC temperatures, the talented team continues to make progress.

Working in teams of two and three, they have been focused on fixing ropes above Camp 1, and according to updates on their website, C2 could be established as early as tomorrow. The climbers have taken turns installing the lines and sleeping at altitude in order to not only acclimatize, but also stay well rested for the challenges ahead. All team members and gear are now on the mountain, and many of their supplies have also been shuttled up to C1. Progress has been slow, but steady, but the real difficulties will set in above Camp 2, where the winds and heavy snows of K2 will really start to become a problem.

Meanwhile, two teams are getting settled in over on Nanga Parbet, which also remains unclimbed in the winter. Denis Urubko and Simone Moro were the first to arrive and after getting settled in Base Camp, they began their ascent. The duo has already established Camp 1 at 5100 meters (16,732 ft) and spent a night their acclimatizing, but unstable snow conditions above that point have prevented them from going higher.

Upon returning to BC, Denis and Simone discovered they had company. The Polish team that has also set its sights on Nanga this season was in camp and getting set-up as well. The two teams will no doubt share the work load of fixing the lines, although you know that they each want to be the first to claim the summit.

Denis and Simone are also releasing video dispatches of their journey, the first of which can be seen below. The excellent video shows the men as they leave Italy and make their way to Pakistan, where they organize gear and put the finishing touches on their planning, before heading out to Base Camp. Pay special attention to all the bags they have with them. It'll give you a sense of how much gear is required for one of these expeditions. Can't wait for more of these dispatches! Great stuff!


Monday, January 9, 2012

Winter Climb Update: Dupre Off Denali

It was a rough weekend on Denali for Lonnie Dupre, who was hoping to make the first solo ascent of that mountain in January. After establishing his high camp last week, the weather took a turn for the worse, with temperatures dropping dramatically and winds increasing to dangerous levels. Despite those conditions however, the weather forecasts called for a potential weather window that would allow him to go to the summit sometime over the weekend . But that window never opened, and after spending several days stuck inside a snow cave, he elected to pull the plug on the entire expedition.

Lonnie spent the weekend descending the mountain in horrible conditions. Updates to his website say that the visibility was almost non-existent and winds topped out at 97 mph (156 km/h). Additionally, temperatures fell to a bone-numbing -72ºF/-58ºC, and with a revised forecast saying the weather pattern had settled in for at least a week, the climber made the wise decision to head home.

This marks the second year in a row that weather has halted Dupre's attempt at history on North America's tallest peak. Last year, under similar conditions, he was left stranded in a snow cave for moe than a week, while a blizzard raged outside. I'm sure he wasn't eager to repeat that scenario, which is why he left the relative safety of his cave and headed down this time out.

As of this morning, Lonnie was in Base Camp at 7200 feet (2194 meters), where he'll wait for a plane to come pick him up. That won't happen until the weather improve either, but at lower altitudes the conditions can be quite different. Hopefully he'll be safely extracted over the next day or two, and on his way home soon there after.

Friday, January 6, 2012

American Alpine Club Hands Out $12k To Fund Climbs

The American Alpine Club has announced the winners of the 2012 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards, which are given annually to small teams making first ascents or other challenging climbs on some of the toughest mountains on the planet. This year, the bold climbers who have earned this recognition seem keenly focused on objectives in Pakistan and China.

The winners each receive grants to help fund their expeditions, and the 2012 honorees certainly have some ambitious plans. The list includes the following:
• Stan Price & Rusty Willis the storied, oft-tried North Ridge of Latok 1.
• Hayden Kennedy & Kyle Dempster for K7 and the Ogre II.
• Graham Zimmerman, Scott Bennett, and Blake Herrington for Tahu Rutum, a stunning 6,651m tower in the Karakoram.
• David Gottlieb & Chad Kellogg for China’s unclimbed Karjiang (7,221m), the 3rd highest unclimbed peak in the world.
 In total, $12,000 was given to these four teams, which Paul Gagner, the chair of the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award committee, called the best he has seen in the years that he has held that position.

Each of those is indeed an ambitious challenge, but those are also some excellent and highly skilled climbers on that list as well. It'll be interesting to follow their progress later in the year, when the Karakoram climbing season gets going.

Congratulations to all the winners and good luck on your projects.

Climber Becomes First To Climb "Second Seven Summits"

Earlier this week, Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander became the first person to climb the "Second Seven Summits," which are the mountains that are the second highest on each of the seven continents. Kammerlander complete his quest in Antarctica, where he reached the top of the 4851 meter (15,916 ft) Mt. Tyree. According to the Adventure Journal, Hans is just the eighth person to nab that summit in the past 15 years.

Kammerlander climbed his first "second-seven" back in 2001, when he successfully topped out on K2, the second tallest mountain in Asia, and the world for that matter. At the time, he wasn't even considering the other second-tallest peaks, but in 2009 he summited Ojos del Salado, a 6893 meter (22,614 ft) mountain in South America. With that one under his belt, Hans began to form the idea of climbing the remaining "second-seven" summits.

With his new goal clearly defined, the Italian went on to climb Mt. Kenya (5199m/17,057ft) in Africa, Mt. Logan (5959m/19,550ft) in North America, and Dychtau (5204m/17,073ft) in Europe, as well a Oceania's Puncak Trikora (4730m/15,518ft) in Indonesia. That left Mt. Tyree has the lone obstacle to completing the Second Seven Summits, and now that is finished as well.

Congrats to Hans on a job well done. This wasn't exactly a highly publicized expedition and he deserves a tip of the hat for the accomplishment.

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions.

On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization process and to shuttle gear to High Camp. He has since returned to Low Camp at 4328 meters (14,200 ft), where he is keeping a close eye on the weather and hoping for a window that will allow him to go to the summit.

Yesterday, he awoke in his snow cave and was getting dressed for the climb, when the winds suddenly grew in intensity, so rather than risk it, Lonnie elected to stay put, rest up, and wait for another opportunity. Essentially the stage has been set for him to make his summit bid, all he needs now is a weather window long enough to give him access to the top. His home team says that they are anticipating such a window in the next few days. When it comes, we could see the first ever solo summit of the mountain in January.

Meanwhile, over on K2, the Russians have continued their work fixing the lines up the mountain, and have completed their work up to 6050 meters (19,750 ft). That is the altitude at which they've established their Camp 1, and a trio of climbers (Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich) have shuttled the first round of gear up to that point today. They'll place a tent at C1 and spend the night there, before descending back down the mountain tomorrow, when another three climbers will rotate up the face and continue fixing ropes above that point.

The weather forecast on K2 isn't very enticing. Yesterday they toiled away in -51ºC/-60ºF temperatures and those are expected to go lower in the days ahead. The high winds at altitude are expected to drop some over the next few days though, which should make the working conditions a bit better, despite the colder temperatures. Such is winter on the world's second tallest peak.

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Jordan Romero On Today Show

Teen-age Seven Summiteer Jordan Romero appeared on the Today show this morning to talk about his recent climb of Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, and the successful completion of his goal to become the youngest person to climb the highest peaks on each of the seven continents. In case you missed the interview, you can watch it in the video below, where you'll see a remarkably mature and composed young man who has stayed focused on his dreams and has worked very hard to achieve them.

In the interview, Jordan also talks about what adventures he might be pursuing in the future. He indicated that while he would like to take a little time to relax and reflect for now, he also wants to continue inspiring other kids to go after their own goals through his Find Your Everest initiative. The 15-year old also hinted that a journey to the South Pole may be in his future as well. As you can tell from the video, he seemed to really enjoy his time in Antarctica, which he calls the most beautiful place he's ever visited.



Monday, January 2, 2012

Antarctica 2011: Jordan Romero's Summit Photos!

As I mentioned last week, on Christmas Eve, teen-age mountaineer Jordan Romero reached the top of Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, completing his quest to climb the Seven Summits. In the process, Jordan became the youngest person to ever achieve that feat and has served as an inspiration for others around the world. Jordan and his family have now returned home to Big Bear in California and a much deserved rest, but I thought you might be interested in seeing a couple of summit photos from his final Seven Summits climb. Check them out below.

Thanks to Clay at No Boundaries for sharing these!




NY Mets Pitcher To Climb Kilimanjaro Against Team's Wishes

R.A. Dickey, a pitcher for the New York Mets baseball team, will set off tomorrow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro in Africa, despite the wishes of the ball club. Dickey will be making the climb as part of a fundraiser for Bombay Teen Challenge, organization dedicated to rescuing and saving young sex slaves that are put to work in brothels in India. He will be joined on the trek by Dave Racaniello, a bullpen catcher for the Mets, and Colorado Rockies pitcher Kevin Slowey, who is a former teammate.

When the Mets got word of Dickey's intentions, they sent a letter to his agent objecting to the player's plans to climb Kili, the tallest mountain in Africa at 5895 meters (19,340 ft). The team wanted to go on record with their concerns in case something were to happen to Dickey, which would prevent him from playing for the team next season – a season in which the 37-year old pitcher is scheduled to earn $4.5 million. In the letter, Met's management stated that they reserve the right to terminate his contract should something go wrong while on the climb.

Of course, this is mostly just posturing on the part of the Mets, who don't want to see one of their players injured and unable to play before Spring Training even gets underway. But climbing Kilimanjaro isn't exactly fraught with dangers. Yes, it can be a physical challenge, and yes there are some risks involved, but thousands of people climb the mountain each year without any problems, and the likelihood of anything happening to Dickey is remotely small.

As the Adventure Journal points out, the Mets are actually missing out on a good opportunity for PR with this climb, and instead are coming off looking a bit like jerks. Professional sports are always about the money of course, and as I mentioned, they're out to protect their investment. It just seems like they could have found a better way of handling the entire situation.

Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest.

The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their efforts. They report that there is little snow on the mountain, at least at this point, but that the temperatures are bitterly cold, as one would expect on the second highest mountain on the planet.

The climbers arrived in BC over the weekend, after being shuttled in by a Pakistani military helicopter, and immediately went to work building their base of operations, organizing their gear, and preparing for the work ahead. It took three flights of the large MI-17 helo to deliver all of the men and their gear to BC, but after waiting out several weather delays, they were happy to finally be on the mountain at last. They now have until March 20th to successfully complete the first winter ascent of K2.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre has been a very busy man on Denali, where he hopes to complete the first solo climb of that mountain in January. He has been building a series of snow caves on the mountain, which will serve as his camps as he goes, and had already shuttled much of his gear up to 4876 meters (16,000 ft). He plans to carry those supplies up to 5242 meters (17,200 ft) tomorrow and establish his High Camp there, before returning to his Low Camp as part of the normal acclimatization process.

Having reached those heights so early in January bodes well for the success of the expedition, but that said, as always on Denali, the weather will decide if and when he can go to the summit. High winds and extremely cold temperatures (-60ºF/-51ºC) have been the norm so far. The mountain is notorious for its bad weather, particularly in the winter, and blizzards can rage for days on end. With that in mind, I'm sure Lonnie wants to take advantage of the current conditions as long as he can, so that he can squeeze through any weather window that is presented.

These two climbers are going to present some amazing drama in the days and weeks ahead. Stay tuned for plenty of updates as both the Russians and Lonnie go after their respective summits.

Monday, December 26, 2011

Antarctica 2011: Jordan Tops Out On Vinson, Completes Seven Summits!

Just a quick update on 15-year old climber Jordan Romero, who finished his quest to climb the Seven Summits over the holiday weekend by successfully topping out on Mt. Vinson. Jordan, along with his father Paul and step-mom Karen, completed their climb on Christmas Eve, and were back in Base Camp in time for dinner.

For Jordan, Vinson marked the conclusion of a quest that he started when he was just 10 years old. Inspired by a mural he saw at his school, the young man decided he wanted to climb the tallest mountains on each of the seven continents. He would take on Kilimanjaro in Africa first, but would follow that up with successful climbs on the other continents as well, including Everest last year. He was just 13 years old when he stood atop the tallest mountain on the planet.

Antarctica was the last continent for the teenager to visit, and the 4892 meter (16,050 ft) Vinson presented a considerable challenge. What the mountain lacks in height, it makes up for with challenging weather conditions. High winds and extremely cold weather are the norm on Vinson, not to mention plenty of snow. Throw in the fact that the air pressure at the Poles is lower, and the air is actually thinner there than it would be taller mountains closer to the equator.

According to Jordan's Facebook page, the team is now preparing to leave Antarctica and head home. They're expecting an airlift back to Hercules Inlet today, and then back to Punta Arenas, Chile in the next few days. From there, the long journey back to the U.S.

The question is, what's next for the talented and focused climber? Will Jordan take a break from mountaineering for awhile, or will he set his sights on bigger challenges. Perhaps the 8000 meter peaks? He already has one under his belt. I guess we'll have to wait to see. After all, the young man still has to graduate high school.

Congrats Jordan.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Winter Climb Updates: Dupre On Denali, Russians Wait

I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. 

We'll start in Alaska, where the weather finally cleared yesterday, allowing Lonnie to hit the mountain at last. He'll now start the process of establishing his Base Camp and organizing his gear ahead of the climb. Since this is to be the first solo January ascent of the mountain, Dupre will likely not start the climb until January 1, which gives him several days to prepare. The weather report looks to be good in the coming days, which also bodes well for the start of the expedition, although the weather is notoriously fickle in Alaska, and can change quickly. Like last year, Lonnie will climb without a tent and will instead take shelter inside snow caves that he'll build himself. 

The weather is on the minds of the Russian Team as well, as they prepare for what will no doubt be the biggest challenge of their climbing careers. The first eight members of the squad have now completed their acclimatization and are back in Skardu, while the second group of eight rotates out for a little time in the nearby mountains as well. Their gear has been packed and organized, and now they're waiting for the Pakistani Army to assign them a helicopter to airlift the supplies to Base Camp. Bad weather in the region is keeping the helicopters grounded at this point however, so the expedition can't officially get underway until the gear can be delivered to BC. There are high hopes that that can happen in the next few days, and the climbers themselves can continue their journey to the mountain. 

Winter is now officially here, which means that these two winter climbs can now officially get moving. Both expeditions are going to be incredibly challenging, as Lonnie will face the mountain alone and with a hard deadline of January 31st, while the Russians are now prepared to spend upwards of three months climbing K2. 

Antartica 2011: Summit Plans Change For Jordan, Felicity Leaves The Pole

While the rest of us prepare for a little time with our friends and family for the holidays, the Antarctic explorers remain focused on their respective goals. Most will celebrate Christmas in their own way, but the best present of all will be achieving the things they set out for on the frozen continent.

One person who should be getting just what he wanted for Christmas is teen mountaineer Jordan Romero. Yesterday I mentioned that he had reached Low Camp on Vinson and was hoping to make his summit bid on Sunday, which would put him on top for Christmas Day. Turns out there has been a slight change of plans however, and after moving up to High Camp today, Team Jordan now expects to summit Antarctica's highest peak tomorrow. If successful, Jordan will become the youngest person to complete the Seven Summits. Good luck to Jordan, his dad Paul, and stepmom Karen. Get up and down the mountain safely.

Meanwhile, Felicity Aston has left the South Pole behind and is now back on the trail and headed towards Hercules Inlet. You'll recall that she arrived at Pole earlier this week and then spent a rest day there before resuming her journey. Felicity hopes to become the first woman to traverse Antarctica solo, and reaching the Pole was a good milestone for her expedition. She still has a long ways to go however, which is why she didn't linger at 90ºS for long.

Australian adventurer Mark George is continuing his solo and unsupported trek to the Pole, and is sending holiday wishes to friends and family back home today. Mark has been out on the ice for 27 days and has now passed the 85ºS mark, which puts him more than halfway to his goal. He reports good weather conditions, and warmer than expected temperatures, which has made the snow soft. Those warm temps are appreciated, but the soft snow makes it much harder to pull the sledge behind you. Still, Mark is making good time and covering solid daily distances as well.

Howard Fairbank continues to make progress toward the Pole as well, and now expects to cross the 89th parallel tomorrow. That'll leave him just one degree shy of the South Pole, where he'll complete his solo and unsupported journey and await Richard Weber's group, whom he'll kite back to Hercules with. Howard says that while he is closing in on the finish line, things are not getting any easier though, largely because of a painful foot injury that  makes it difficult to ski at times. The South African says that he is both mentally and physically exhausted at this point, and he'll reassess the idea of kiting once he hits 90ºS.

Finally, Cas and Jonesy have picked up the pace this week, skiing an extra hour each day and as a result, covering more distance. They're also thinking strategically about their expedition now, as they intended to not only reach the South Pole, but then ski back to Hercules Inlet when they're done. Because of this, they've begun to drop supply caches in various locations along the way, which has the benefit of not only lessening their loads, allowing them to move faster, but gives them resupply for the return trip. They're also rationing their food at this point as well, which means they're generally hungry all of the time. When you burn 6000+ calories per day on the trail, it is hard to get enough to eat. But if they want to have a legitimate chance of becoming the first team to make the round-trip from Hercules Inlet to the Pole and back, they need to conserve their supplies. While they haven't indicated that there will be a change in those plans, I wouldn't be surprised if they don't also reassess their situation upon reaching the South Pole as well.

That's all for now. More updates soon.

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Antarctica 2011: Jordan In Low Camp On Vinson, Eyes Christmas Summit

Just a quick update on Jordan Romero this morning, who is now in low camp on Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, where he is hoping to complete the last of his Seven Summit climbs. If successful, Jordan will become the youngest person to complete that feat at the age of 15.

The current plan is for Jordan and his team, which consists of his father Paul and stepmother Karen, to move up to high camp tomorrow, where they'll rest, acclimatize, and prepare for a proposed summit bid on Christmas morning.

You can follow along with their progress on Jordan's website, which is updated with current weather conditions on the mountain as well as text messages from the team and their current GPS coordinates. As I write this, it is -22ºC/-7ºF in LC, with a windspeed of 38km/h (20.5 mph). In other words, it is cold and breezy, which is just what you'd expect when climbing this mountain.

Stay tuned for more updates on Jordan's progress. Hopefully he'll be getting the best Christmas present ever on Sunday when he stands on top of Vinson and accomplishes the amazing goal that he set for himself when he was just 10 years old.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Winter Climb Updates: Russians On Their Way To BC, Lonnie in Talkeetna

The big winter climbs that I've been covering, even before they've gotten underway, are both ramping up nicely and getting ready to commence. Considering the first full day of winter is tomorrow, the climbers are all in the final stages of preparation and are preparing to let the action begin.

First up, the Russian K2 team took just two days to reach Skardu, arriving there on Saturday. Since then, they've been busy getting their gear prepped for the climb and packing it for transport to Base Camp. Most of the equipment will be shipped via helicopter, where it will be waiting for them to arrive, and while the support crew works at putting the final touches on their preparation work, the eight climbers who will be working the mountain have started their acclimatization process. They'll spend a few days climbing the nearby Sadpara Mountains, before heading into BC itself. The hope is to arrive their by Sunday, Christmas Day, when they'll officially start the expedition.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre is also putting the finishing touches on his preparations to take on Denali once again. He's also keeping a close eye on the weather as well. According to his website, he'll be off to Base Camp as soon as his air taxi can deliver him to the frozen wilderness. Dupre is returning to the mountain once again this winter in an attempt to become the first person to solo-summit in the month of January. To that end, he hopes to be in position on January 1st so that he has a full 31 days to accomplish his goal. Last year, his attempt was thwarted by bad weather, which is a common occurrence on North America's tallest peak during the winter.

Both of these climbs are going to be epic. Lonnie's solo bid on Denali is a bold mountaineering feat and the Russian K2 squad could be attempting the impossible. For those of us who love to follow these kinds of adventures, it is certainly going to be fun to watch. Lets just hope everyone stays very safe.

Monday, December 19, 2011

Nat Geo's Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

As 2011 grinds to its inevitable end, it is now time to start looking forward to 2012 and making plans for our adventures in the year that is ahead. With that in mind, the National Geographic Adventure blog has shared their picks for the top destinations and activities for 2012.

Some of the places earning a spot on the list include Mammoth Mountain in California, which is famous for its great snowboarding and skiing. Those looking for a different kind of mountain experiences are encouraged to travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina for a mountain biking adventure or visit China to take on the 7498 meter (24,600 ft) tall Mustagata. Paddlers will have plenty to choose from as well, as the list provides kayaking opportunities in Idaho and Rhode Island, as well as an epic canoe trip through the Allegheny Mountains of Pennsylvania.

All in all, a pretty great list of suggestions for making plans for next year. I'll be writing my own top ten travel list for Gadling.com soon, and this year I'm going to take a slightly different tact. Instead of listing a specific destination, I'm going to list a specific adventure from a specific travel company that can help you get the most out of your travels. So, rather than saying go to Nepal because its great for the following reasons, I'm going to instead recommend trekking the Annapurna Circuit with a specific adventure travel company. This is just an example, but I'll be sure to share my list here once it goes live over at Gadling too. I think you'll like some of the suggestions.

Until that time, be sure to read Nat Geo's list, as it does have some great suggestions, not all of which will destroy your bank account.

Friday, December 16, 2011

K2 Winter Update: Off To Skardu By Bus

The all-star team of Russian climbers who will take on K2 this winter, have started the second leg of their journey. After arriving in Pakistan last weekend, they've been busy organizing their gear and planning the logistics of the expedition. After completing that process, they have now shipped their gear to Skardu, which serves as the gateway to the Karakoram, and they had hoped to hop a flight to that city as well. But weather delays have grounded air travel in the region, so they've elected to go by bus - a journey which could take upwards of 30+ hours to complete.

On Tuesday, the team stopped by the Central Alpine Club of Pakistan, where they were briefed on the climb and awarded their climbing permit. With that last logistical hurdle out of the way, they are now free to proceed with the expedition. The plan is to ship their gear from Skardu to K2 Base Camp by helicopter, while they follow along on foot, taking the time to acclimatize a bit on their way to BC. The plan is to be in camp and officially begin the climb on Christmas Day.

The team is deep in talent and has some impressive climbs on its resume, including ascents of Lhotse, Everest, and K2 itself. But according to ExWeb, none of the mountaineers have completed a Himalayan climb in the winter and the bulk of their experience climbing during that season is within Russia itself. Winter climbing in Russia is a challenge of course, but they're likely to face conditions they've never seen before in the Karakoram.

Climbing K2 is a supreme test of physical and mental toughness. It is, arguably, the most challenging climb on the planet, and that is under the best of conditions. The winter will bring a whole new set of obstacles to over come, not the lest of which will be the bitter cold temperatures, howling winds, and heavy snows. I salute these bold Russian climbers for giving this climb a go, and while the odds are supremely stacked against them, I'll definitely be cheering them on none the less.

I can't wait for them to get on the mountain and start the climb.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Antarctica 2011: Jordan Romero Is On His Way

While the South Pole skiers struggle with their own demons, namely the bad weather and endless days on the ice, the climbers are now appearing in Antarctica in larger numbers, as they set off to climb Mt. Vinson and other nearby peaks.

One of those climbers is of course Jordan Romero, the 15 year old mountaineer who is on the brink of becoming the youngest person to complete the Seven Summits. Yesterday, Jordan and his team (read: his dad and stepmom) left the U.S. for Punta Arenas Chile, where they'll have a brief stop over to collect their gear and complete final preparations before the expedition officially begins. So far, Jordan's website hasn't been updated with on his status, but keep an eye out on the Team Jordan Romero twitter feed for news on his whereabouts. Once he arrives in Base Camp, there will be regular updates, with texts, images, and voice reports as well.

Mt. Vinson marks the end of a long quest for Jordan. The young man climbed his first of the Seven Summits, Kilimanjaro, back in 2006 when he was just ten years old. He followed that up with a slew of successful climbs up Aconcagua, Elbrus, Denali and others. Of course, it was his climb up Everest last year that caught the attention of media around the globe, as he scaled the highest mountain on the planet at the ripe old age of 13.

With Everest out of the way, Vinson was the last obstacle for the young man. Standing 4892 meters (16,050 ft) in height, the peak won't necessarily intimidate with its altitude. The high winds, bitterly cold temperatures, and heavy snow will still create quite a challenge however, so this won't be a walk in the park by any stretch of the imagination. Still, Jordan has faced stiffer challenges since he began climbing, and I've learned not to bet against this kid. He is strong, talented, and very determined. It should be fun to follow along on the last of his Seven Summits.

Monday, December 12, 2011

K2 Winter Update: Russians In Pakistan

One of the big expeditions for the winter ahead is the attempt to summit K2 by an all-star team of Russian climbers. Considering the fact that the "Savage Mountain" has never been climbed in the winter, and is amongst the most challenging feats in all of mountaineering under the best of conditions, this project is likely to garner quite a bit of attention in the weeks ahead.

According to the official expedition website, the climbing team arrived in Pakistan today and have been working to get their gear through customs. Once that is completed, they'll ship it all to Skardu, which is where they'll begin the next phase of their journey to K2 base camp. If all goes according to plan, they should arrive in BC sometime next week, just in time for the start of winter.

Standing 8611 meters (28,251 ft) in height, K2 is the second tallest mountain on the planet behind only Everest. It is considered to be far more challenging to climb however and is often labeled "the mountaineer's mountain" because of the skill and experience required to reach the top. In August of 2008, 11 climbers perished on it's slopes in what was considered the prime climbing season for the mountain. It then went un-climbed for three years before an international team managed to reach the summit earlier this year.

A winter K2 attempt will likely be the very definition of suffering. The Russian squad will no doubt face incredibly cold temperatures, sustained high winds, heavy snows, and the ever present threat of avalanches. In short, this will be one of the toughest climbs imaginable, although if anyone can pull it off, it will likely be this hardy band of Russians who are accustomed to dealing with these types of conditions. They are prepared to stay on the mountain for upwards of three months and they have plans to work in teams of two to fix lines and build camps. Whether or not the weather, and the mountain itself, will ever give them the opportunity at the summit, remains to be seen.

This is going to be a good one to follow. Stay tuned for updates.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Video: An Adventurous Life

I came across this video at the Adventure Journal, and found the imagery compelling, even if I didn't understand the language. It depicts German adventurer Olaf Rieck on numerous expeditions over the years and offers up some of the more challenging moments of those journeys. Entitled Abenteuer Leben (Adventure Life) Part I, the video is a reminder that adventures are often incredibly difficult and challenging, and can make us extremely uncomfortable for days and weeks at a time. And yet, strangely enough, we still keep going back for more.

While some of the scenes depicted here look absolutely brutal, I can't be the only one who views them and thinks "I'd sure like to be there."



Olaf Rieck - Abenteuer Leben Part I from ulF wogensTein on Vimeo.