Himalaya Fall 2011: Summits To End The Season

The Fall 2011 Himalaya climbing season is quickly coming to an end as climbers finish their expeditions. Some are already heading home, while others are still coming down the mountain, but the last few days have seen a flurry of summits on several peaks.

On Manaslu, Himex has pust 46(!) people on top in the past two days, which is an astounding number. Their dispatch claims that is about 10% of the total number of people who have actually climbed the mountain since it was first summited back in 1956. Similarly, the Altitude Junkies had a dispatch yesterday saying that their team was in position to go up to the summit today, so it seems patience is finally paying off for those who stayed for a few extra days.

IMG is also reporting that their Shisha Pangma team reached the summit yesterday as well. It was a tough climb, with lots of trail breaking through deep snow, but in the end they were able to get up and down safely and are due back in ABC today.

There have been more summits on Cho Oyu as well, with the SummitClimb team topping out on Monday and more teams hoping to go up yesterday amidst good weather. Unfortunately, ExWeb is reporting that there is also an ongoing rescue attempt on that mountain as well, with a stranded Spanish climber in Camp 2. Apparently, the climber turned back from his summit attempt due to exhaustion, and now is unable to make his way unassisted down the mountain. Other climbers are going up to help him, but snow conditions are making things challenging, and there are few teams left in ABC to lend a hand. Lets hope for the best.

The exhausted climbers on Makalu,  Artur Hajzer, Kacper Tekieli, Adam Ciucka and Maciej Stanczak, along with four Sherpas, are continuing their very slow descent. They reportedly reached Camp 1 yesterday and should be back in ABC today, although Stanczak has had to be carried off the mountain due to his extreme exhaustion. They appear to be otherwise in good health and should be fine after a bit of rest.

Congrats to everyone who has topped out over the past few days. It has been a hectic end to the season, and while there may yet be a few more late summits, most of the season is now over, and the Himalaya will grow quiet until the spring.

Himalaya Fall 2011: Summits On Makalu and Cho Oyu!

This past weekend saw continued good weather in the Himalaya, which allowed some teams to summit while others were stymied by deep snow. Now, as the new week begins, some climbers are in place to make a last ditch summit bid, while others are packing up and heading home.

On Friday, ExWeb reported that the Polish team of Artur Hajzer, Tomasz Wolfart and Maciej Stanczak successfully topped out on Makalu after a long, and tough ascent. The three experienced climbers struggled on the way down however, and were actually stranded for a time in Camp 3, where they were too exhausted to move. It was bad enough at one point that a call for rescuers was put out, but that "SOS" was later cancelled and the team has now descended to Camp 2. While they are very tired, they are also in good health and feeling fine. They should be back in Base Camp tomorrow.

Over on Cho Oyu, the Jagged Globe team managed to successfully put three climbers on top, although it wasn't easy. They set off for the summit on Friday but found the snow to be too deep to move, so the climbers descended back to Camp 3, while the Sherpas continued fixing the ropes and clearing the route. On Saturday, the team gave it another go, and discovered that the snow had settled nicely, allowing them to ascend safely and in perfect conditions. Since then, the team has already descended back to BC, and the Sherpas have cleared the camps. They are expected to return to Chinese Base Camp today and back to Kathmandu by Wednesday. Congrats to Matt, Cian, and Jerome on a job well done.

Other teams on Cho Oyu were not so lucky. The Adventure Lovers squad turned back from their summit bid, and left BC on Saturday, with plans to arrive back in Kathmandu today. Likewise, the IMG team went up to the Yellow Band, but found the snow too deep to continue, so they abandoned their attempt and returned to ABC as well. They set out for home on Saturday.

The IMG team on Shisha Pangma hadn't given up yet and as of Friday, they were in Camp 1 on that mountain. There hasn't been any updates since that time however, so it seems likely that they descended and have decided to return to Kathmandu as well.

Finally, climbers are still holding out for a summit attempt on Manaslu, where the Altitude Junkies and Himex teams are reportedly in Camp 3 and are preparing for a summit bid tomorrow. It seems that conditions remain good on that mountain and things are proceeding on schedule and according to plan.

Judging from these reports it seems that the Fall Season will be over by mid-week, and it is likely that the jet stream will settle in over the Himalaya in the next few days as well. All in all, a fairly successful season, despite the trying weather. Lets hope the last of these teams gets up and down safely.

Himalaya Fall 2011: New Summit Bids Underway!

Extremely bad weather shutdown all summit bids last weekend, but the new week brought clear skies and generally good conditions. That has also brought on a new round of summit bids, with most teams now starting to move up their respective mountains, with an eye on topping out this weekend. They're also in a race against time, as the jet stream begins to move over the region.

Yesterday we received word from Manaslu that the Altitude Junkies and Himex Sherpa teams were joining forces to dig out the fixed lines, which were buried under snow earlier in the week. They hoped to get everything ready for another summit attempt, although the teams were a bit reluctant to say when that bid might happen. Today we learn that they are now eyeing next Tuesday or Wednesday for their final push, and although the weather pattern looks better, they are now expecting much colder temperatures. If they do plan to summit on the 4th or 5th, they'll start the ascent as early as tomorrow. 

Meanwhile, the improved weather over the Himalaya has kicked things into high gear on Cho Oyu. The IMG, Adventure Lovers, and Jagged Globe teams have all started moving back up the mountain, and all are reportedly in Camp 2. Conditions are said to be good, although the deep snow is slowing progress considerably. Still, if they stay on pace, and the weather remains good, expect summits on Sunday.

IMG also has a team on Shisha Pangma, and they've also preparing for a new summit bid as well. The Sherpas climbed to Camp 1 today to dig out the tents and prepare for the arrival of the climbers, who are set to begin their ascent tomorrow. That would conceivably put them on schedule to summit on Tuesday of next week, provided everything goes according to plan. 

ExWeb chimed in with the news yesterday that a Polish team climbing on Makalu was already in Camp 3 on that mountain, with plans to head up to C4 today. If that milestone was reached, than it is likely that tomorrow will be summit day for the 7-man team.

Finally, in the same story, ExWeb reported that an unnamed Czech climber died on Cho Oyu a few days back. The cause of death isn't known, but the body was apparently found hanging in the ropes. The man was an independent climber, but aside from that no one even seems to know his name. As always, condolences to friends and family. 

Himalaya Fall 2011: Snow Stopped, Teams Plan For Next Summit Bid

Yesterday I posted a rather dire update from the Himalaya, in which nearly every team had retreated to their respective Base Camps after a massive storm dumped snow across the entire region. Today we get news that the weather has shifted once again – this time for the better – and plans are in motion for the next attempt on the summit. At least on Manaslu.

Earlier today, the Altitude Junkies posted a dispatch in which they reported that the snow had finally stopped flying and that conditions were "glorious" in BC. Unfortunately, that doesn't mean that they are particularly good higher on the mountain, where heavy accumulations have buried the fixed lines and will make breaking trail an arduous task. On top of that, until the snow settles, conditions will be unstable, which could make avalanches a real possibility.

Because of those unsafe conditions, the AJ team isn't in a real hurry to head back up the mountain, although the current weather reports say that conditions should be good heading into the weekend. The team leaders aren't quite ready to announce their new schedule, but they have indicated that they'll be working with the Himex team to dig out the ropes and re-establish the high camps so they'll be ready to go as soon as possible.

There were some forecasts that indicated that the jet stream would move over the Himalaya around the first of October, so obviously there are some concerns that if that happens, the season will come to a quick end. But for now, it seems that the teams on Manaslu are feeling optimistic about their chances of another summit bid. We'll likely know more about their plans in the next few days.

No word from the teams on Shisha Pangma or Cho Oyu yet, but they were also hit hard by the storm. They're probably evaluating the situation too and hoping that they'll have the opportunity to climb soon as well. Once the jet stream settles in, cold weather and high winds come along with it, which means the end of the fall climbing season. Only a few brave and rugged climbers venture to the region in the winter.

Himalaya Fall 2011: Weather Window Slams Shut

At the end of last week, the climbing teams in the Himalaya seemed poised to take advantage of a favorable weather pattern to make summit bids early this week. In fact, a number of them had planned on standing on top of their respective mountains today, but that weather pattern shifted, preventing any serious summit attempts. Now, most of the climbers are simply hoping that they'll get another chance before the season ends. 

Weather forecasts last week seemed to indicate that a front would move through the region, depositing some snow, but would quickly move on, bringing clear skies and low winds for the first part of the week. That front stalled out over the mountains however, and as a result, most of the teams saw two to three days of snow fall. That heavy snow was the reason that most aborted their summit bids over the weekend, and now find themselves back in Base Camp, watching the skies. 

Not all of the teams missed their window however. ExWeb is reporting that a Korean team topped out on Cho Oyu last Friday after the lines were finally fixed to the summit on that mountain. Their forecasts indicated that the jet stream would change, moving directly over the summit, and if they were going to have a successful climb, they would have to make a dash up the mountain. They did so, and now Jae Soo-Kim can claim to have "legally" climbed all 14 of the 8000-meter peaks. He had previously climbed Cho Oyu without a permit, which is illegal. 

The IMG squad on Cho Oyu wasn't so lucky however. They climbed up to Camp 1 before the snow started flying, and have since retreated back to ABC. The same holds true for their counterparts on Shisha Pangma. For now, both teams wait to see if they'll have the opportunity to go back up, but their forecasts indicate that as soon as the snows leave, the jet stream flow in, bringing colder temperatures and high winds with it. As a result of the continued bad weather, both the Adventure Lovers and Jagged Globe teams abandoned their summit attempts over the weekend as well. 

A similar story is being told on Manaslu, where the Altitude Junkies and Himex teams saw their summit bids stalled out by heavy snows in Camp 1 and 2. Both report that the snow continued all through the weekend and into yesterday, which means that the higher slopes on the mountain are covered with lots of fresh powder. That makes breaking trail a much more challenging task, and at the moment, the fixed lines are all buried. Over the next few days, the Sherpas will be moving back up the mountain to inspect the conditions of the high camps and free the ropes. While the teams wait, some members of the AJ squad will head down to Sama Goan, to rest at one of the teahouses there. Whether or not they'll get the chance to make another summit bid remains to be seen. 

Hopefully this big snow storm isn't the end of the fall season in the Himalaya. The next few days will probably decide the fate of most of the teams, as the skies clear, it'll all depend on where the jet stream falls. If they have a few days of good weather, there is still a chance for some summits. But if the jet stream settles over the region, it usually is in place until the spring, bringing an end to climbing for all but the most experienced and hardy mountaineers. Stay tuned for more updates. 

Himalaya Fall 2011: Summit Bids Begin Today!

Earlier in the week I posted an update on the 2011 fall Himalaya season in which I noted that many teams were now in their respective base camps, resting, and keeping an eye on the weather. Most had completed their acclimatization rotations, and were now enjoying some down time before they started their first summit attempts. Fast forward a few days, and plans are now in place to make those bids, with climbers starting to head back up their mountains as early as today.

It looks like Monday or Tuesday will be summit day on Manaslu. Both the Altitude Junkies and Himex teams are reporting that a weather window is expected to be open on that mountain for early next week, and they're now moving into position to take advantage of it. Heavy snow is in the forecast for tomorrow, but after that, things look good, so both teams are climbing to Camp 1 today, and will proceed higher over the weekend, putting themselves in position to summit on the 26th or 27th. Presently, ropes are fixed all the way to Camp 4, but Sherpas will be working in front of the teams next week to place the lines all the way up to the summit.

The IMG team reported in that Camp 3 was established on Shisha Pangma a few days back as well, opening the door for the climbers to begin their summit attempt on that mountain too. Weather reports are looking good, with little to no snow in the forecasts, so it appears that they'll start their ascents in the next few days. A second IMG team on Cho Oyu, along with a squad from Jagged Globe, are preparing for a summit attempt on the 27th as well after finishing their acclimatization rotation at Camp 2.

With the weather holding steady into next week, it looks like everyone is hoping to top out before an expected shift in the jet stream sometime around the beginning of October. Most of the climbers have been on their mountains for more than a month now, and are eager to stand on top. Hopefully the good weather, and their health, will hold out for a few more days. It looks like early next week will be very busy in the Himalaya.

Himalaya Fall 2011: Early Summit Bids Soon

For the most part, the weather across the Himalaya has remained good so far this season and as a result, teams have been making good progress. This past weekend was spent acclimatizing for most, and now climbers are back in Base Camp on their respective mountains. Everything seems to be going as scheduled thus far, and some teams are already talking summit bids.

The joint squad of Himex and AlpenGlow are back in BC on Manaslu following three nights stay in Camp 2. Their Sherpa teams have now fixed lines all the way to Camp 4 and have their gear caches in place for a summit bid, which will come after they rest for a few days and when the proper weather window arrives. They don't have a firm date on when that will happen yet, but if the weather stays calm, it could begin as early as this weekend.

The team also reports that they felt the earthquake that struck the region on Sunday while they were in high camp, and while it didn't cause any damage to the climbers or their equipment, it did trigger a large avalanche which streamed down the mountain not far from where they were encamped at the time. Fortunately, no one was hurt by either the quake or the avalanche, but it was sobering experience at the time.

The Altitude Junkies are also on Manaslu and spent the weekend high on the mountain as part of their acclimatization process as well. On Saturday they climbed up to Camp 2 and were surprised to find two French climbers occupying one of their tents. After evicting the squatters, they also discovered that they had damaged the tent, making it useless for anyone else to stay in as well. That incident behind them however, they went on to "tag" Camp 3 the following day, before returning to Base Camp yesterday. Everyone is doing healthy and doing well, and it seems they are on track for a summit bid soon as well.

 IMG has teams on both Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu and it seems they are both moving along like clockwork. On Shisha they hoped to have Camp 3 established and stocked yesterday and on Cho Oyu the climbers have been on rotation up to Camp 2 and should now be back in Base Camp and resting for their next push. No word on summit attempts on either mountain yet, although it is still early, so this is not at all unexpected.

The Jagged Globe team is also on Cho Oyu, and they provide more insights into when summit bids are likely to happen there. They report snow every day, at least at the lower altitudes, but thus far the winds have remained calm. But, the weather patterns are expected to shift around October 1, bringing the jet stream directly over the mountain. That means high winds, and possibly heavier snow. Because of this, the JG guides are saying that they'll need to summit before the end of September. Thankfully, they've been acclimatizing well and things look good. The team is currently in BC after a rotation up to Camp 2.

It looks like the calm before the storm at the moment. Lots of teams are resting and watching the skies. Expect the summit bids to really get going early next week.

Everest Fall 2011: Acclimatizing In The Himalaya

As I mentioned earlier in the week, a number of autumn expeditions are underway in the Himalaya, where small teams have collected on a few mountains, where they are already busy setting up camps, learning important skills, and most of all – acclimatizing for the ascents to come.

On Manaslu, the Altitude Junkies have now set-up shop and have their all important "Internet dome" working properly. This gives the team members an opportunity to blog about their experience, stay in contact with friends and family back home, and keep track of what's happening in the world. They won't get too long to enjoy their technology however, as the team plans to head up to Camp 1 today, weather permitting, and spend a few nights sleeping there as part of their first rotation.

The Himex squad is also on Manaslu, and they have already finished their first stay in C1, and have now been back in ABC for several days. They hope to go back up for their second rotation in a day or two, but for now, they are enjoying warmer temperatures and clear skies in BC, where thick fog and cool weather had been the norm. The Sherpa team, consisting of 21 climbers, went back up the mountain earlier in the week and were preparing to build Camp 3 and drop supplies at 6800 meters (22,400 ft), but they discovered part of the route had collapsed, so they've had to go to work on rebuilding the lines and making sure they are safe for clients. That process is complete, and the climbers can now safely proceed up to C3, although they're not quite ready to go that high just yet.

Jumping over to Shisha Pangma, the IMG team has already completed it's climb and stay in Camp 2, and everyone is back in Advanced Base Camp and recuperating from that rotation. Their Sherpa team is also fixing lines to Camp 3, but more teams are now arriving on the mountain, so the hope is that they'll be able to work together to finish the process. The latest updates indicate that the weather is good, with small snow showers, but no major storms.

Meanwhile, on Cho Oyu the Adventure Lovers team was in ABC, located at 5650 meters (18,536 ft) on Tuesday, where they conducted their Puja Ceremony before they began their climb. Wednesday they made the trek up to Camp 1, at 6400 meters (20,997 ft) and after spending a few days acclimatizing there, they are expected back in ABC today. They'll then rest for a time before starting back up the mountain.

On Dhaulagiri, Carlos Soria is making progress as well, despite bad weather. According to an update on Wednesday, he and his team have moved up to Camp 1 and continue to be in good spirits and health. Unfortunately, they've had to contend with heavy rains in the evenings, although it doesn't seem to have been a major detriment thus far.

At this point of their climbs, it is all about the rotations. The reports sound a bit repetitive and boring, but in actuality, this is what it is like to climb in the Himalaya. The process can be slow and monotonous, but also necessary for success at the end. Still, these teams are all doing well thus far, and if the weather continues to be good, it is likely we'll see summit attempts beginning in a couple of weeks.

Himalaya Fall 2011: A New Season Begins

With the summer season in the Karakoram now behind us, climbers are heading back to the High Himalaya in Nepal and Tibet for the fall season. While this is a much quieter time of year, when compared to the hustle and bustle of spring, there are still plenty of teams looking to bag summits in the weeks ahead.

Some of the climbers have already come and gone through Kathmandu and are now acclimatizing on their mountain of choice. For example, the Himex team is on Manaslu (8156 meters/26,759 ft) this fall, and have already gone as high as Camp 1, located at 5547 meters  (18,200 ft), where they spent three nights last week. While most expeditions to the Himalaya are special in their own right, this one is even more so. The team has nine soldiers from the U.K. who have suffered wounds while serving in Iraq and Afghanistan, each of which are hoping to summit the mountain. Those soldiers are working with the charity Walking With The Wounded to raise funds and awareness of their cause.

Also on Manaslu are the Altitude Junkies, who welcomed all of their team members to camp yesterday. They held their Puja ceremony this morning, and will now begin shuttling gear up to Camp 1 as well, The Sherpas are expected to start that process tomorrow, with the climbers to follow on Wednesday. Team leader Phil Crampton reports that the weather has been terrible in Base Camp the past three days, with plenty of rain making it difficult to establish camp. Fortunately, their gear seems to be working well so far, keeping everyone warm and dry.

IMG has teams on both Cho Oyu (8201 m/26,906 ft) and Shisha Pangma (8013 m/26,289 ft) this fall, and those squads both reached their respective Camp 1 last week. Both teams have spent time acclimatizing at altitude and are now resting in ABC and are expected to climb up to C2 in the next few days. Meanwhile, Sherpa teams have finished establishing those Camp 2's and are now fixing ropes above those points.

Other climbers and squads are now en route to other mountains as well, including Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and more. As of now, I haven't heard of anyone attempting Everest this fall. If you know of a team that is doing so, please forward their information on to me. Thanks!

Himalaya 2011: Spring Season By The Numbers

Earlier today, ExWeb posted an excellent re-cap of the 2011 Spring Himalaya climbing season, breaking down all the stats and records, while putting it all into perspective for us. They have the scoop on the highs (pun intended!) and lows of another very busy spring in the mountains.

Amongst the stats that may be of interest is the fact that there were, according to ExWeb's count, roughly 680 summits in the Himalaya this year. Of those, about 500 took place on Everest alone. Remember, this is in a year that was said to be quieter than normal. That is a much higher number than what I had been led to believe, but the folks over at Explorers Web are bit more tapped in on those kinds of numbers, so I'm inclined to believe them. The remaining 180 summits were spread out across a variety of peaks, but of the 8000 meter mountains, nine saw successful summits, including Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Annapurna, and Shisha Pangma.

Most of the post is made up of a list of "firsts," which include the first summits on a variety of peaks by climbers from specific nationalities, as well as age records for the youngest and oldest to scale some of these mountains as well.

Finally, the post wraps things up on a solemn note with a run down of the climbers who lost their lives in the Himalaya this spring. That list is always too long, no matter the number on it, and is a sobering reminder of the dangers we all face when going to high altitude.

Himalaya 2011: Ueli Steck Shares Details Of Cho Oyu

Last Friday we got the news that Ueli Steck and Don Bowie had summitted Cho Oyu, notching Ueli's second 8000 meter peak in 18 days. Over the weekend, both men shared their thoughts on the climb, filing in some of the details of the ascent and their time on the mountain.

Ueli posted this detailed report, which gives us a timeline of the climb and conveys a sense of urgency that they felt due to weather window that had opened for the 4th and 5th of the month. After that, things looked dicey, and if they hoped to reach the summit before moving on to their next challenge, they would need to take advantage of what ever window nature offered. That's exactly what they did, and according to Ueli, it was a fairly easy, as far as 8000 meter peaks go, climb.

He did note that he wasn't nearly as fresh on Cho Oyu as he was on Shisha Pangma a few weeks back. Judging from his report, he is looking forward to finishing the expedition, and heading home, as he has been away for some time now, and the toll of climbing and trekking in the Himalaya has begun to wear on him.

Of course, he and Don have one more peak yet to go, and that would be Everest. The pair hope to return to Lhasa tomorrow and spend a day or two resting there before driving to Everest Base Camp, provided the Chinese grant them permission to do so. It seems that they will most likely be in BC by the weekend, and should be ready to have a crack at the mountain sometime next week, provided they feel healthy and read, and the weather holds out.

For a second report on their climb, you can read Don's account by clicking here. He treads similar ground as Ueli, but shares some other details as well, such as a nasty bout of sickness that hit both men prior to their Cho Oyu ascent.

And for those asking, yes there is a summit photo this time. Ueli and Don were part of a small group of climbers who went up the mountain, as opposed to Steck's solo efforts on Shisha.

Himalaya 2011: Ueli and Don Summit Cho Oyu!

Ueli Steck and Don Bowie have topped out on Cho Oyu, reaching the summit yesterday and nabbing the second 8000 meter peak in just 18 days for Steck. Details remain a bit light at the moment, and the home teams for both men say that they are still returning to Base Camp, where we are likely to get more information, and possibly summit photos this time out.

Back on April 18th, Ueli made a speed climb of Shisha Pangma (8013 m/26,289 ft), going tent-to-tent in under 20 hours. That was just the warm-up for the Swiss climber however, as he immediately left that mountain for Cho Oyu, where he and Don have apparently made another light and fast alpine style ascent. Standing 8201 meters (26,906 ft) in height, Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world.

Up next, the duo will head over to Everest to try their luck on the tallest of the 8000 meter peaks. They'll likely arrive just in time as well. With the route to the summit in place, most teams are waiting for a weather window to begin their climb. I'm guessing Don and Ueli will wait out the crowds and rest up in Base Camp, before making another ascent. They'll probably want everyone out of their way once they get moving.

Congrats to Ueli and Don on a job well done. Two 8000 meter peaks in the span of less than three weeks is pretty impressive stuff.

Himalaya 2011: Ueli Shares Details On Shisha Climb

Last week we received the amazing news on Ueli Steck's solo speed climb of Shisha Pangma in 10.5 hours. Since then, we've had a variety of reports on the climb, but we haven't heard from Ueli himself. That is, until today, when he posted details of the climb on his Himalayan Speed website.

Steck says that when he set off from camp he didn't have any intentions of climbing the mountain, but that he was going to climb up to about 7200 meters (23,622 ft) to have a look around and see how he felt. But the conditions were so good and he felt in great shape, that he decided to just keep going up.

Ueli says that he climbed along the British Route, then traversed over the Wieliki Route because of bad rockfall in the night. Eventually though, he ended by exiting on the Spanish Route, although he was more or less just feeling his own way as he went. He did report a lot of snow near the summit, which made things a bit dicy, but still he managed to complete the climb in a very quick fashion.

Check out the video below for more on Ueli's Shisha speed climb. And before anyone asks, no, there still aren't any summit photos released.


Ueli Steck Climbing Shisha Pangma (8027m) from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Himalaya 2011: More On Ueli's Speed Ascent Of Shisha Pangma

A few days back we received the stunning news of Ueli Steck making a solo speed climb of Shisha Pangma in just 10.5 hours. Over the past few days more details and information about that ascent have begun to trickle out, even as Ueli and his climbing partner, Don Bowie, make their way for their next big Himalayan peak.

An update was posted to Ueli's website, HimalayanSpeed.com, that contains some more insight into the climb. It seems that Steck attacked the South Face of the 8013 meter (26,289 ft) after getting a weather forecast that was favorable for his ascent. Bowie was forced to stay behind in ABC, as he has not fully acclimatized yet, but Ueli was able to go in his traditional style, light and fast, all the way to the top. His 10.5 hour climb marks the fastest ever ascent of the South Face and the second fastest 8000 meter climb of all time.

Don Bowie has also posted his thoughts on the climb on his website as well, with some personal insights into what happened as well. He says that Ueli had intended to climb with him, but Don encouraged him to take advantage of their present weather window and have a go at it. The forecasts weren't good for a few days later, and in mountaineering terms you have to go for it when you can. With that in mind, Ueli went for it, and the rest is history.

Don and Ueli are no en route to Cho Oyu, an 8201 meter (26,906 ft) peak on the border of Tibet and Nepal. They spent just five days on Shisha, much to the surprise of their support crew, who are use to settling in for weeks at a time. Even the yak herder who brought their gear was surprised to get a call back to BC, as he had barely returned home when it was time to pick up the gear once again.

This is just the latest demonstration of Ueli's versatile climbing skills. I guess there will probably come a time when I stop being surprised at the things this guy pulls off on the mountains, but I'm not sure when that will happen. He is simply an amazing climber, dedicated to his craft, and he'll probably have another great climb on Cho Oyu before heading over to the Big Hill – Everest – in a few weeks.

And for the commenter who has already been posting anonymously questioning Ueli's time and wondering about summit photos, you may want to stop trying to drum up controversy where there is none. Ueli's reputation is beyond reproach, and his skills are WELL documented. I'm sure that you'll get all the proof you need at some point. As for me, I have all I need in Ueli's word alone.

Can't wait to see what he and Don can do on the other two 8000 meter peaks on their itinerary.

Ueli Conquers Shisha Solo In 10.5 Hours!

So, I had no more than finished writing the post below this one about all the happenings in the Himalaya, when I came across this story over at Climbing.com about Ueli already knocking off Shishapangma! It seems that he arrived in Base Camp last week, and two days later made a summit bid.

According to Climbing, Ueli and Don Bowing made the climb up to ABC, located at 5,800 meters (19,029 ft) on Saturday. Don wasn't feeling ready yet for an attempt, so Ueli made a solo summit bid at 10 PM that night. By 9 AM yesterday morning he was on top of the mountain, and both he and Don were back in Base Camp just 20 hours after they left.

All I can say is WOW! Ueli never ceases to amaze me. While he has been acclimatizing throughout the region in preparation for this Himalayan Hat Trick, it is still amazing to read about his exploits. Keep thi sin mind, it is doubtful that there are even fixed ropes to the summit of Shisha yet, so for Steck to climb solo, and that fast, is simply incredible.

Congrats to Ueli on already taking down the first of his 8000 meter peaks. Good luck with the remaining two.

Himalaya 2011: Expeditions Make Way To Makalu, Shisha, and More

Over the past couple of weeks I've been following a number of climbers and teams as they've made their way to Everest, mainly on the South Side. As is usual for this time of year, there will be a lot of traffic on that side of the mountain, and a good deal of coverage for everything that is happening there. But as you well know, that isn't the only mountain of interest in the Himalaya, and teams are now making their way to some of those equally, if not more, challenging mountains, that are a bit lesser known.

For instance, Melissa Arnot and Dave Morton are on their way to Makalu, the 8481 meter (27,825 ft) peak located on the border between Nepal and Tibet. It i the 5th highest mountain in the world and one that Melissa has dreamed of climbing for some time. She and Dave will be sharing their experience on the First Ascent Born Out There Blog, with their first entry being filed yesterday. The two climbers  arrived in Lower Base Camp, located at 4800 meters (15,748 ft) yesterday, and were expecting to shuttle all of their gear up to BC at 5600 meters (18,372 ft) today.

The Field Touring Alpine squad is en route to Cho Oyu as well, and according to this blog post they should be arriving in Advanced Base Camp tomorrow or Wednesday. The team drove from Tingiri to Chinese BC on Saturday, where they arranged yaks for the trek, and should have arrived at Intermediate Base Camp today. Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak on the planet at 8201 meters (26,906 ft) and obviously the FTA team is climbing from the Tibet (Chinese) side of the mountain.

Alex Gavan is in Base Camp on Kangchenjunga as well, and filed this dispatch today with reports on climbs as high as C1 on that mountain already. Alex and one of his teammates have spent the night in Camp 1, located at 6173 meters (20,252 ft) and are now back in BC with the rest of the Kangchenjunga climbers. Acclimatization is going well, and Base Camp is crowded this year, with five teams on the mountain. That's a lot of activity for this peak.

Finally, Ueli Steck and Don Bowie are on their way to Shishapangma, which will be the first of their Himalayan triple header. The talented climbing duo hope to not only climb that mountain, but also Cho Oyu and Everest this season. Word is that Ueli has already been acclimatizing for some time, and is prepared to make fast and light, alpine style attacks on all three of these mountains. Ueli is already a legend in climbing, and if he pulls this off, he'll only add to that resume. See the video below for more.

We're just getting warmed up in the Himalaya folks. While over all traffic in the region may be down a bit this year, there are still plenty of fantastic teams going after some impressive mountains. The next month to month and a half are going to be very busy there.



Ueli Steck's Project Himalaya from Mountain Hardwear on Vimeo.

Ski Tibet: Attempting the First Descent of Shisha Pangma

Last fall, a team of talented skiers and climbers traveled to Tibet to attempt to climb, and make the first descent of Shisha Pangma, an 8013 meter (26,289 ft) monster in the Himalaya. They managed to capture their adventure on video, which chronicled their travels through colorful and chaotic Tibet and on to the mountain itself. Last week they released a short teaser video of that adventure, which you'll find below. After watching it, you'll definitely be looking forward to the "long version" as it is beautifully shot and looks incredible.

Thanks to Adventure World Magazine for the tip off to this one.



Ski Tibet short version from Mark Fisher on Vimeo.