Climbers Make First Ascent Of Saser Kangri II

Three American climbers have successfully topped out on Saser Kangri II, the second highest unclimbed peak in the world. According to the Hardwear Sessions Blog, the trio began their ascent on August 21st and reached the summit on the 24th, returning to Advanced Base Camp the following day.

The team consisted of American Alpine Club President Steve Swenson,  Mark Richey, who is a past president of that organization, and Mountain Hardwear athlete Freddie Wilkinson. The three men traveled to a very remote region of northern India to make the climb up the 7518 meter (24,665 ft) peak which features a 1700 meter (5577 ft) face that is extremely technical in nature.

The team did receive a major scare however, as Swenson suffered a severe sinus infection during the ascent. That infection turned into a major respiratory ailment that required that he be airlifted from the mountain on August 26th. Steve ended up spending a few days in the hospital while Mark and Freddie packed their gear and trekked out the traditional way, rejoining him in the town of Leh on the 30th. 

Saser Kangri II was one of the last major unclimbed peaks in the world and is a significant accomplishment for Swenson, Richey, and Wilkinson. The highest peak, Gangkhar Puensum, is located in Bhutan and stands 7570 meters (24,836 ft) in height. That mountain is likely to remain unclimbed, at least for the foreseeable future, as it is deemed a holy place, and climbing is strictly forbidden by the Bhutanese government. The new "second highest unclimbed" mountain is Labuche Kang III, located in Tibet, not far from Cho Oyu. That peak is 7250 meters (23,786 ft) in height. 

Congrats to Steve, Mark, and Freddie on a job well done. If you'd like to read more about their expedition, Steve is posting excellent post-climb reports on his blog, which can be found here. Also, check out the video below of Wilkinson sharing thoughts on the climb.

Afghanistan Reopens Mt. Noshaq

Great news for mountaineers today, as National Geographic is reporting that Mt. Noshaq, the tallest peak in Afghanistan, has reopened to climbers. The mountain has been off limits for decades due to its location inside an unstable region of the country, but over the past few years, the area has once again became safe for travelers.

Noshaq is located in the Hindu Kush mountains along the border with Pakistan. It towers 7492 meters (24,580 ft) above the Wakhan Corridor, a strip of land that has been a historical trading route between Afghanistan and China. It was first climbed back in 1960 by a Japanese expedition, and an all Afghani team reached the summit in 2009, but due to the political upheaval in the area, it has remained mostly off-limits for outsiders in recent years.

According to Nat Geo, a Wildlife Conservation Society team launched an expedition on Noshaq in the last week of July, and topped out on August 4th. They were the first foreign team to summit since before the 1979 Soviet invasion. Access to the area was further hindered in the 1990's thanks to massive numbers of landmines being set across the region during the Afghan civil war. That has all changed now however, as American forces have secured and cleared the area, making it safe for travel once again.

The hope is for this area to become a spot for adventure tourism to flourish, and in the past it was a popular destination. Afghanistan is hoping to overcome perceptions that the region is not safe however, but when they do, they believe that Noshaq and other mountains in the area will become a favorite of climbers looking for new challenges.