Winter Climb Update: Progress On K2 and Nanga Parbat

The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre, who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all.

On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be expected on the world's most challenging mountain, but despite high winds and -75ºF/-59ºC temperatures, the talented team continues to make progress.

Working in teams of two and three, they have been focused on fixing ropes above Camp 1, and according to updates on their website, C2 could be established as early as tomorrow. The climbers have taken turns installing the lines and sleeping at altitude in order to not only acclimatize, but also stay well rested for the challenges ahead. All team members and gear are now on the mountain, and many of their supplies have also been shuttled up to C1. Progress has been slow, but steady, but the real difficulties will set in above Camp 2, where the winds and heavy snows of K2 will really start to become a problem.

Meanwhile, two teams are getting settled in over on Nanga Parbet, which also remains unclimbed in the winter. Denis Urubko and Simone Moro were the first to arrive and after getting settled in Base Camp, they began their ascent. The duo has already established Camp 1 at 5100 meters (16,732 ft) and spent a night their acclimatizing, but unstable snow conditions above that point have prevented them from going higher.

Upon returning to BC, Denis and Simone discovered they had company. The Polish team that has also set its sights on Nanga this season was in camp and getting set-up as well. The two teams will no doubt share the work load of fixing the lines, although you know that they each want to be the first to claim the summit.

Denis and Simone are also releasing video dispatches of their journey, the first of which can be seen below. The excellent video shows the men as they leave Italy and make their way to Pakistan, where they organize gear and put the finishing touches on their planning, before heading out to Base Camp. Pay special attention to all the bags they have with them. It'll give you a sense of how much gear is required for one of these expeditions. Can't wait for more of these dispatches! Great stuff!

Winter Climb Update: Dupre Off Denali

It was a rough weekend on Denali for Lonnie Dupre, who was hoping to make the first solo ascent of that mountain in January. After establishing his high camp last week, the weather took a turn for the worse, with temperatures dropping dramatically and winds increasing to dangerous levels. Despite those conditions however, the weather forecasts called for a potential weather window that would allow him to go to the summit sometime over the weekend . But that window never opened, and after spending several days stuck inside a snow cave, he elected to pull the plug on the entire expedition.

Lonnie spent the weekend descending the mountain in horrible conditions. Updates to his website say that the visibility was almost non-existent and winds topped out at 97 mph (156 km/h). Additionally, temperatures fell to a bone-numbing -72ºF/-58ºC, and with a revised forecast saying the weather pattern had settled in for at least a week, the climber made the wise decision to head home.

This marks the second year in a row that weather has halted Dupre's attempt at history on North America's tallest peak. Last year, under similar conditions, he was left stranded in a snow cave for moe than a week, while a blizzard raged outside. I'm sure he wasn't eager to repeat that scenario, which is why he left the relative safety of his cave and headed down this time out.

As of this morning, Lonnie was in Base Camp at 7200 feet (2194 meters), where he'll wait for a plane to come pick him up. That won't happen until the weather improve either, but at lower altitudes the conditions can be quite different. Hopefully he'll be safely extracted over the next day or two, and on his way home soon there after.

Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions.

On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization process and to shuttle gear to High Camp. He has since returned to Low Camp at 4328 meters (14,200 ft), where he is keeping a close eye on the weather and hoping for a window that will allow him to go to the summit.

Yesterday, he awoke in his snow cave and was getting dressed for the climb, when the winds suddenly grew in intensity, so rather than risk it, Lonnie elected to stay put, rest up, and wait for another opportunity. Essentially the stage has been set for him to make his summit bid, all he needs now is a weather window long enough to give him access to the top. His home team says that they are anticipating such a window in the next few days. When it comes, we could see the first ever solo summit of the mountain in January.

Meanwhile, over on K2, the Russians have continued their work fixing the lines up the mountain, and have completed their work up to 6050 meters (19,750 ft). That is the altitude at which they've established their Camp 1, and a trio of climbers (Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich) have shuttled the first round of gear up to that point today. They'll place a tent at C1 and spend the night there, before descending back down the mountain tomorrow, when another three climbers will rotate up the face and continue fixing ropes above that point.

The weather forecast on K2 isn't very enticing. Yesterday they toiled away in -51ºC/-60ºF temperatures and those are expected to go lower in the days ahead. The high winds at altitude are expected to drop some over the next few days though, which should make the working conditions a bit better, despite the colder temperatures. Such is winter on the world's second tallest peak.

Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest.

The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their efforts. They report that there is little snow on the mountain, at least at this point, but that the temperatures are bitterly cold, as one would expect on the second highest mountain on the planet.

The climbers arrived in BC over the weekend, after being shuttled in by a Pakistani military helicopter, and immediately went to work building their base of operations, organizing their gear, and preparing for the work ahead. It took three flights of the large MI-17 helo to deliver all of the men and their gear to BC, but after waiting out several weather delays, they were happy to finally be on the mountain at last. They now have until March 20th to successfully complete the first winter ascent of K2.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre has been a very busy man on Denali, where he hopes to complete the first solo climb of that mountain in January. He has been building a series of snow caves on the mountain, which will serve as his camps as he goes, and had already shuttled much of his gear up to 4876 meters (16,000 ft). He plans to carry those supplies up to 5242 meters (17,200 ft) tomorrow and establish his High Camp there, before returning to his Low Camp as part of the normal acclimatization process.

Having reached those heights so early in January bodes well for the success of the expedition, but that said, as always on Denali, the weather will decide if and when he can go to the summit. High winds and extremely cold temperatures (-60ºF/-51ºC) have been the norm so far. The mountain is notorious for its bad weather, particularly in the winter, and blizzards can rage for days on end. With that in mind, I'm sure Lonnie wants to take advantage of the current conditions as long as he can, so that he can squeeze through any weather window that is presented.

These two climbers are going to present some amazing drama in the days and weeks ahead. Stay tuned for plenty of updates as both the Russians and Lonnie go after their respective summits.

Winter Climb Updates: Dupre On Denali, Russians Wait

I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. 

We'll start in Alaska, where the weather finally cleared yesterday, allowing Lonnie to hit the mountain at last. He'll now start the process of establishing his Base Camp and organizing his gear ahead of the climb. Since this is to be the first solo January ascent of the mountain, Dupre will likely not start the climb until January 1, which gives him several days to prepare. The weather report looks to be good in the coming days, which also bodes well for the start of the expedition, although the weather is notoriously fickle in Alaska, and can change quickly. Like last year, Lonnie will climb without a tent and will instead take shelter inside snow caves that he'll build himself. 

The weather is on the minds of the Russian Team as well, as they prepare for what will no doubt be the biggest challenge of their climbing careers. The first eight members of the squad have now completed their acclimatization and are back in Skardu, while the second group of eight rotates out for a little time in the nearby mountains as well. Their gear has been packed and organized, and now they're waiting for the Pakistani Army to assign them a helicopter to airlift the supplies to Base Camp. Bad weather in the region is keeping the helicopters grounded at this point however, so the expedition can't officially get underway until the gear can be delivered to BC. There are high hopes that that can happen in the next few days, and the climbers themselves can continue their journey to the mountain. 

Winter is now officially here, which means that these two winter climbs can now officially get moving. Both expeditions are going to be incredibly challenging, as Lonnie will face the mountain alone and with a hard deadline of January 31st, while the Russians are now prepared to spend upwards of three months climbing K2. 

Winter Climb Updates: Russians On Their Way To BC, Lonnie in Talkeetna

The big winter climbs that I've been covering, even before they've gotten underway, are both ramping up nicely and getting ready to commence. Considering the first full day of winter is tomorrow, the climbers are all in the final stages of preparation and are preparing to let the action begin.

First up, the Russian K2 team took just two days to reach Skardu, arriving there on Saturday. Since then, they've been busy getting their gear prepped for the climb and packing it for transport to Base Camp. Most of the equipment will be shipped via helicopter, where it will be waiting for them to arrive, and while the support crew works at putting the final touches on their preparation work, the eight climbers who will be working the mountain have started their acclimatization process. They'll spend a few days climbing the nearby Sadpara Mountains, before heading into BC itself. The hope is to arrive their by Sunday, Christmas Day, when they'll officially start the expedition.

Meanwhile, Lonnie Dupre is also putting the finishing touches on his preparations to take on Denali once again. He's also keeping a close eye on the weather as well. According to his website, he'll be off to Base Camp as soon as his air taxi can deliver him to the frozen wilderness. Dupre is returning to the mountain once again this winter in an attempt to become the first person to solo-summit in the month of January. To that end, he hopes to be in position on January 1st so that he has a full 31 days to accomplish his goal. Last year, his attempt was thwarted by bad weather, which is a common occurrence on North America's tallest peak during the winter.

Both of these climbs are going to be epic. Lonnie's solo bid on Denali is a bold mountaineering feat and the Russian K2 squad could be attempting the impossible. For those of us who love to follow these kinds of adventures, it is certainly going to be fun to watch. Lets just hope everyone stays very safe.

Lonnie Dupre Returns To Denali This Winter

The winter season will certainly be an interesting one this year. Not only are the Russians taking on K2, but now ExWeb is reporting that Lonnie Dupre will return to Denali, where he hopes to make the first solo winter ascent of that mountain in January. This will be round 2 for Dupre and Denali, with the mountain winning their first bout last year.

Last year, Dupre traveled to Alaska in the coldest and darkest portion of winter just to attempt to scale the 6193 meter (20,320 ft) peak at the most challenging time possible. He was able to go as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) before his climb was halted by a massive blizzard. For the next seven days, Lonnie waited out the storm, which included winds in excess of 100 mph and temperatures that dipped to -50ºF/-45ºC. After it finally passed, he was forced to give up his quest and leave Denali behind. In January 2012, he'll return to the Alaskan wilderness to give it another go.

ExWeb says that Dupre's approach to the climb will remain largely the same as last year, during which he didn't carry a tent at all, but instead built snow caves along his route. Those caves were used not only for shelter, but also as gear caches, which he stocked as he acclimatized to the weather and altitude. In attempt to shed some weight however, he will be packing all of his food in freeze dried form. That way he won't have to carry much in the way of cooking gear and will simply need to heat it up over a stove and eat it straight from the package. The intention is to cut weight as much as possible, go light and fast, and hope that the speed will allow him to bag the peak in what ever narrow weather window is provided.

You can bet we'll be following this expedition once again. It was very compelling reading last time out and I suspect it will be again this year. Lonnie is a veteran polar explorer, but even he was pushed to the limits on Denali this past January.

Video: First Ski Descent Of Denali

This past spring, mountaineer/skier Andreas Fransson made the first ski descent of Denali's South Face, an epic challenge that has been considered for some time, but hadn't been tried yet. A few days ago he released video of his climb and ski descent, which, at more than 13 minutes in length, offers an excellent look at what it takes to climb the highest mountain in North America, and then subsequently go back down in grand fashion.

Looking down that long, steep slope in the video makes me wonder why anyone would ever, under any circumstances, try this, but thats why its never been done before I suppose. The views are simply stunning however, and the landscapes surrounding Denali never cease to take my breath away.

Thanks to The Goat for sharing this great video.



First ski descent on Denali south face by Andreas Fransson from Bjarne Sahlen on Vimeo.

National Park Service Raises Price Of Denali Climbing Permits

Earlier this week, the National Park Service announced that it was raising the price of climbing permits for Denali, the tallest peak in North America. The fee increase, we're told, is to help offset the rising costs of rescuing climbers on the mountain.

Beginning in the 2012 season, the cost of a standard permit to climb the 6196 meter (20,327 ft) mountain will increase from $200 to $350. Permits issued for climbers 24 years old and younger will cost $250. Fees were originally instituted on the mountain back in 1995 to help cover the costs of maintaining a Search and Rescue.

Denali is a challenging, difficult mountain to climb, and since it is one of the Seven Summits, it is also a popular one. As a result, it sees its fair share of traffic each year, and along with that traffic comes some concerns with accidents and injuries. To help protect the climbers, the Park Service maintains three camps at various altitudes, plus a high altitude helicopter used for rescues. The NPS also funds an educational program designed to help prevent situations that would require climbers to need a SAR team.

Personally, I think a $350 permit is still a bargain on this type of climb and I don't see this impacting the number of people on the mountain too an great extent. If it helps fund operations that make the mountain safer, than I think it is definitely a justifiable rate increase and one that most mountaineers would applaud as well.

Denali Update: It's Over For Alan

Alan Arnette's plans for summiting Denali came to an end over the weekend thanks to a suborn and persistent weather system that would not allow access to the top of the mountain. He and his team had been at High Camp, located at 17,500 ft (5334 meters) for seven days waiting for a weather window to open, but high winds and heavy snows continued to prevent them from mounting any kind of serious summit bids. As a result, they simply ran out of time, so Alan, along with the rest of his Mountain Trip team, are now heading home.

This Denali climb was the most recent in Alan's bid to climb the Seven Summits to raise funds for Alzheimer's research. After completing successful climbs on Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, Aconcagua in South America, and Everest in Asia, he seemed poised to stand atop Denali as well. Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate with those plans, so this summit will have to wait for awhile.

Next up on the agenda is Elbrus, the highest mountain in Europe at 18,481 ft. (5643 meters). Alan will travel to the Caucasus Mountains in August to take on that climb, before heading to Tanzania in September for the 19,340 foot (5896 meter) Kilimanjaro.

Having a climb called off due to weather is part of the game when it comes to mountaineering. That doesn't make it any easier or any less disappointing when it happens. According to his latest dispatch, Alan is now at Base Camp at 7800 ft on the mountain as he waits, along with about 45 other climbers, for extraction from Denali. The weather is much better at that altitude, and temperatures have risen high enough that they have to wait for the glacier to refreeze before a plane can come and retrieve them. if all goes well, the teams should be headed home today however.

I'm sure more than a few of them will be dreaming about Denali until next year, when they can return and give it another crack.

Waiting Out The Weather On Denali

As I've mentioned before, Alan Arnette is currently climbing Denali as the fourth leg of his Seven Summits for Alzheimer's project. Having already knocked off Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, Aconcagua in South America, and Everest in Asia, he has been hoping to finish Denali, the highest peak in North America as well. Unfortunately, the weather has not been cooperating, and his window is starting to run short, as he awaits an opportunity to add one more summit to his already impressive resume.

According to his latest dispatch, Alan is currently sitting at High Camp on Denali, which is located at about 5242 meters (17,200 ft). He, and the rest of his team, are hoping that weather forecasts hold true, and the projected change in weather takes place tomorrow, which would clear the way for summit attempts on Thursday. If the high winds and snows continue however, his opportunity to summit may disappear. The expedition has set a deadline of July 17th, which is Sunday, for when they'll need to leave the mountain.

Alan and his squad, which is being guided by Mountain Trip, are making a late season climb, and as a result, they are practically the only ones on the mountain at the moment. That could prove to be very beneficial if they do get the opportunity to summit, as there won't be any traffic jams headed up to the 6196 meter (20,327 ft) summit. On the other hand, with all the snow that has been hitting the area recently, they'll be forced to break trail themselves. I'm sure at the moment however, they're just all hoping they'll get a crack at the summit.

Stay tuned for updates later in the week. Hopefully there will be at least one more successful Denali climb this season.

Alan Arnette On Denali

While I've posted a few times on the start of the climbing season in the Karakoram, I have barely mentioned the attempts on Denali so far this year. As many of you know, the 6196 meter (20,327 foot) mountain, located in the heart of Alaska, is the tallest peak in North America, and a formidable challenge at any time of the year. Most climbers attempt the peak in June and July in an attempt to avoid the worst of the weather there, although conditions can be unpredictable and dicey year round.

Fresh off his successful summit of Everest this past spring, Alan Arnette has traveled to Alaska and has already been sending back some excellent dispatches from the road. Alan set off on his latest expedition on Saturday and arrived in Base Camp yesterday, where he reports that his team has the place all to themselves at the moment. The climb itself begins in ernest today, with the team, which is being led by Mountain Trip guides, heading up to Camp 1, located at about 2408 meters (7900 feet). They'll now spend a few nights there before going back down to BC as part of their acclimatization process.

This is the fourth leg of Alan's 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's project, during which he is hoping to raise $1 million for the Cure Alzheimer's Fund. Having already finished off Vinson in Antarctica, Aconcaqua in South America, and Everest in Asia, Denali is the toughest of the climbs left on the schedule. It is also a mountain that Alan is familiar with, having attempted it on two occasions in the past. He's hoping that third time will be charm however, and that this time, he'll stand on the summit.

Follow along with Alan's adventure with regular updates on his blog. He always offers great insights into what ever climb he is on and shares his experiences in a wonderful manner. I'll post updates has he heads up as well.

Himalaya 2011: Alan Arnette Shares His Everest Experience

The 2011 Spring Climbing Season may be over, but we're continuing to get information about the events that unfolded in the mountains over the past few months. Take for example a pair of recent blog posts from Everest summitteer Alan Arnette, who completed the third leg of his Seven Summits for Alzheimer's project when he stood on top of the world's tallest peak.

The first blog post, published a couple of days back, is an excellent recap of the gear that Alan used on his Everest expedition, beginning with the trek to Base Camp and continuing all the way to the summit. He talks about the items he used while living in BC for weeks at a time and on his various acclimatization rotations as well. For some of you, this will probably be old hat, but for those who aren't aware of all the items that are used on this type of climb, it is a very revealing read. Definitely recommended for those who like their gear!

For an even better read however, you'll want to take a look at Alan's final expedition report, during which he talks about the climb in much more detail. You will find an introductory blog post, published just this morning, and a link to a PDF document that actually contains the report itself. As you would expect from Alan, the document is very well written and detailed, with plenty of information for those interested in an Everest climb in general and Alan's story specifically.

With Mt. Vinson, Aconcagua, and now Everest under his belt, Alan will next turn to Denali in his quest to complete the Seven Summits. Expect regular dispatches from that expedition as well, as he sets his sights on the highest peak in North America, a mountain he is also quite familiar with.

Great work on these reports Alan. Good luck in Alaska!

Four Climbers Injured, One Dead on Denali

While most of our attention has been drawn to the Himalaya over the past few weeks, some daring climbers have been making spring attempts on Denali. One of those climbs went bad last week, leaving one climber dead and four others injured on the West Buttress of the mountain.

According to this story at the Alpinist, six climbers set off for their final summit push on the 6196 meter (20,327 ft) Denali on May 11th. They began the day at High Camp, located at 5242 meters (17,200 ft), in conditions that were said to be excellent, although high winds were in the forecast for later in the day. One member of the group elected to stay in camp due to the forecast, while Tony Diskin, Jeremiah O'Sullivan, Beat Niederer and Lawrence Cutler, along with their two guides Dave Staeheli and Henry Munter, headed for the summit.

Part way up the mountain, Diskin turned back. Suffering from frostbite on his fingers, he was assisted down the mountain by Munter. When the pair arrived at High Camp, they gathered up the climber there, and moved further down the mountain. Meanwhile, the others continued to go higher, eventually reaching the summit late in the afternoon. On their descent, O'Sullivan tripped and fell, dragging his teammates, who were all roped in, down the glacier for about 300 feet. He broke his leg in the fall, and the report says that Niederer also dislocated a shoulder and that Staeheli broke a rib.

 With the team in bad shape, Staeheli attempted to call for help, but was unable to get a radio signal and the satellite phone was damaged in the fall. The guide sent Niederer and Cutler, who was uninjured, down the mountain to seek help, while he attempted to drag O'Sullivan in a bivy sack, giving up after just a few hundred feet.

At about this time, the winds began to pick up and temperatures began to drop, so Staeheli made the decision to go down to High Camp with Niederer and Cutler to try to organize a rescue, leaving O'Sullivan on the mountain above 19,000 feet. They stumbled down the mountain, and at one point, Staeheli and Cutler became separated from Niederer, who went missing somewhere on the descent. Stumbling into High Camp, the guide and his lone remaining client, were aided by another team that has also gone up to the summit that morning.

The weather took a turn for the worse and a rescue wasn't possible until the following day. Helicopters were able to go up the mountain, where they pulled both O'Sullivan and Niederer off the high slopes of Denali. O'Sullivan was alive, but need immediate attention, while Niederer showed no signs of life at all, and was later declared dead. At this time, the cause of his death is not known.

For the full story, be sure to read the account by the Alpinist. It is a sad tale, with a set of circumstances that put the guides and other climbers into a bad position. It was almost as if things were going to turn sour no matter which decision they made. This will no doubt be one of those mountaineering stories that are debated for a long time.

My condolences to Niederer's friends and family for their loss.

Winter On Denali: Video Brings Challenges Home

Back in February, Christine Feret and Artur Testov made a bold attempt to summit Denali in winter. The 6196 meter (20,327ft) mountain, located in the heart of Alaska's wilderness, is a challenging climb in the best of conditions, but in the winter the weather adds an entirely new dimension.

Obviously, most of us will never get an opportunity to get anywhere close to the mountain during the winter, which is why the video below is such a good one. It shows the conditions that Christine and Artur had to deal with on their expedition, including poor weather, sub-zero temperatures, and tons of snow.

Oh! And if you've ever wondered what it looks like inside a snow cave, than this video is for you. The duo stayed in snow caves the entire time, and there are several portions of the video that capture that experience. (Warning: This video may make you say "Brrrr!")`

Denali Winter Ascent: Weather Thwarts Climb

After having limited Internet access for the past day and a half, I'm finally getting back online and starting to get caught up on everything that has been going down in the world of adventure. Updates may continue to be on the slow side for the next day or two, but things are progressing and improving.

One of the expeditions that I've been watching closely has been the winter climb of Denali in Alaska. Artur Testov and Christine Feret had been attempting that very difficult mountaineering feat, and when we last checked in with them, they were heading down to reassess their options. It turns out that the options were not so good, and so they decided to pack in the expedition and head home for another year.

The weather on Denali in the winter is fickle to say the least, and this is the second time that it has played havoc with Artur and Chritine's attempt to summit the mountain. Much like last time, the pair spent several days huddled in a snow cave waiting for an opportunity to move up, but once again that opportunity never came.

The challenge wasn't finished when they decided to end the expedition however, as the descent was a harrowing one, marred by very high winds, lots of snow, and cold temperatures. You can learn more about that part of their climb by listening to the audio dispatches that are available on the expedition's blog.

Standing 20,327 feet (6,196 meters), Denali is the tallest mountain in North America and due to the northerly latitude that it falls on, it is a challenge to climb at any time of the year, let alone in the winter. Fortunately, Artur and Christine made it down in one piece and without significant injury. Perhaps they'll be able to give it a go next year.

Denali Winter Ascent: Heading Down For Now

Earlier this week I mentioned an expedition that is currently underway on Denali, in which Artur Testov and Christine Feret are attempting to climb Denali in the winter. When last we checked in on the two climbers, they had been stuck in a snow cave for six days and were waiting for the weather to improve. Now, a few days later, the weather hasn't gotten all that much better, so they've elected to head down the mountain and wait for another opportunity.

According to their latest audio dispatches, Artur and Christine have descended to 11,000 feet (3352 meters) where they managed to find a snow cave they had previously built at that altitude. They've now taken shelter there and are hoping for another crack at the summit, but conditions are extremely bad and the weather is always unpredictable on Denali this time of year.

From the sounds of things, the descent wasn't much of a picnic, as Christine calls it a "hell day" in her dispatch, but she did say that as soon as they dropped below 11,000 feet, the wind stopped and it became an absolutely beautiful day on the mountain. That has encouraged them to sit tight for a bit and wait for their next opportunity, but it is also a bit disheartening to find conditions so calm down below, but know what kind of maelstrom awaits up towards the summit.

Climbing Denali in the winter is one of the biggest challenges in all of mountaineering. While the peak is "just" 20,327 feet in height, it is situated at a latitude that makes for very long, and cold winters. Most climbers take on this mountain in late-June and into July, and even then it can be a bit dicey. Artur has successfully climbed the mountain in winter however, and Christine has what it takes to make it to the top too. All they need is a little luck and a proper weather window to give it a go.

Stay tuned for updates.

Sherpa Climbs Seven Summits In 42 Days

Way back last March of last year I posted a story on Ang Chhiring Sherpa, who at the time was attempting to set a speed record for climbing the Seven Summits. Fast forward a year, and he has accomplished his goal and in highly impressive times.

According to this story, which is in French, (use Google Translate), A.C., as he has known, managed to knock off each of the seven summits in just 42 days of accumulated climbing. That's the amount of time he actually spent on the mountains itself, and not his his total time from start to finish of all of the mountains. The individual times for each of the peaks looks like this: Mount McKinley- 12 days; Kilimanjaro - 16 hours, 37 minutes round trip!); Elbrus - 8 hours, 14 minutes; Kosciusko - 2 hours, 32 minutes; Aconcagua - 7 days; Vinson - 4 days;  and Everest - 19 days.

A.C. actually finished off his quest last may when he completed his climb of Everest, but I hadn't seen confirmation of his final time until this story was send my way by Louis-Philippe Lonke earlier today. While the news might be old, it is still a very impressive time and accomplishment that deserves a salute.

It should also be noted that A.C. wasn't making the climb just to achieve a record. He was also raising funds and awareness for the Himalayan Women & Children Foundation, an organization dedicated to helping to educate women and provide basic health care and other services for those living in the Himalayan mountains.

A worthy cause to say the least.

Denali Winter Ascent: In A Holding Pattern, Waiting For Weather To Improve

Climbers Artur Testov and Christine Feret have returned to Denali this year to challenge that formidable mountain in the winter. The duo made the attempt in 2010 as well, but were forced to turn back due to bad weather, and while it may be a new year, their old foe has returned to challenge them once again.

This expedition actually got underway back on February 1st, but due to my travels, it slipped off the radar a bit. But, there is still plenty to report, as both Artur and Christine have made good progress, despite the extremely cold temperatures and generally poor conditions. The two are currently huddled in a snow cave on the headwall while they wait out the high winds that are causing whiteouts on the mountain. They've been in that cave for four days already and yet they remain optimistic and confident in their approach to the climb. Temperatures are said to be hovering around -60ºF (-51ºC) so they'll also wait for warmer temps before moving up as well.

A winder descent of the 20,327 ft (6,196 m) Denali is one of the toughest challenges in all of mountaineering. The feat has only been accomplished a hand full of times, with weather usually being the biggest obstacle. Throughout the winter, the mountain is shrouded in darkness while high winds, heavy snow, and frigid temperatures punish anyone who attempts to claim the summit. The mountain is a challenge even in June and July, the prime climbing season, which makes a winter attempt all the more daring. 

You can read more about the expedition on their official website, where you'll also find plenty of audio dispatches to help keep you informed of Artur and Christine's progress. Keep your fingers crossed that the weather clears and gives them a crack at the summit.

Denali In January: Heading Home!

For the past several weeks, we've all been following Lonnie Dupre has he attempted his solo climb of Denali in January. We all knew that the polar explorer was tough and could handle frigid conditions, but the task ahead of him was still a daunting one. He hoped to nab the first solo summit of the mountain during its coldest and darkest month. Today came news that the mountain had won, as he is now headed to Base Camp and eventual flight home.

Throughout the month of January, things seemed to be going well for Dupre. The weather was good and he was making steady progress up the 20,320 foot (6194 meter) tall mountain. But last weekend, conditions took a turn for the worse, with high winds and heavy snow hitting the region. Reportedly, Lonnie endured 100 mph winds and -60ºF temperatures while he waited for things to clear. After a few days in a snow cave however, he decided it was best to head back down and wait for a better opportunity. During our last update, on Wednesday, it appeared that that is exactly what he would do as he descended to 14,200 feet.

The updates to his blog today tell a different story however. It seems that he has decided that it isn't safe to climb the mountain any longer, and as the last few days of January slip away, it is best to head home. So, his support team says that he is in the process of moving down to Base Camp, located at about 7200 feet, where he'll wait for a plane to pick him up and take him to Talkeetna. Reportedly, conditions on the way back down have been on the treacherous side, which has made for slow going. But if all goes well, he should be able to catch a flight over the weekend and should be back in civilization soon.

Despite not grabbing the summit, this was an excellent expedition to follow. Lonnie did a great job under very difficult conditions and we're told that he is in good spirits but looking forward to a hot shower, a green salad, and a glass of red wine. Come to think of it, those are the same things I'm looking forward to as well.

Well done Lonnie!